Waterkloof Estate: At One With Nature

The Editor visits Waterkloof Estate | The Month June 2012

Veteran wine grower, and one of the Napa Valley’s better-known (and some would stress opinionated) personalities, Stu Smith, has little regard for the biodynamic approach to wine production. In fact, in June 2010 he went so far as to create the ‘Biodynamics is a Hoax’ website and introduced his views without fear or favour by saying that “biodynamics… deserves the same level of respect the scientific community has for witchcraft, voodoo and astrology.”

It’s a strong statement, and a far cry from my simple introduction outlined only a couple of months earlier in the April 2010 edition of The Month in which I wrote: “Biodynamics… is based on the turn-of-the-century teachings of the Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, who believed that the introduction of chemicals to farming degraded the quality of food produced and represented a spiritual failing on the part of the farmer and a failure to keep in touch with the rhythms of the moon and the seasons.”

At the time of writing I thought Steiner’s views to be ‘interesting’, for want of a better euphemism, and if pressed may well have found myself on Stu Smith’s side of the biodynamic fence. I would, however, have stopped short of sharing Smith’s view that “Rudolf Steiner was a complete nutcase, a flimflam man with a
tremendous imagination, a combination if you will, of an LSD-dropping Timothy Leary with the showmanship of a P.T. Barnum.” Today, however, I find myself on the other side of that fence thanks to a stirring visit to Waterkloof and time spent with the estate farm manager, Christiaan Loots.

Visiting Waterkloof, with Classic Wine editor Cathryn Henderson, Food24.com’s Tessa Purdon, and freelance journalist Malu Lambert, ostensibly to sample the delights of Chef Gregory Czarnecki and enjoy the estate’s wines. I had no desire to potter about the vineyards or listen to Christiaan walk us through yet another take on a wealthy landowner’s attempt to be ‘kind’ to the already raped environment.
With a glass of water and the pleasantries of introductions taken care of we were ushered into Christiaan’s 4x4 double cab – me somewhat overdressed and squashed between the delightful, mini-skirted, ladies on the backseat – for the short drive to the farm’s water treatment plant, right outside the restaurant.

“It looks like a full-on sewerage works,” said a voice. “Yes,” came Christiaan’s proud reply as he launched into a detailed and captivating account of where the farm gets its water (and the name Waterkloof), their approach to water conservation, his own conversion from ‘regular’ farming to biodynamics and the fact that fully decomposed effluent is sprayed onto the vines.

“That water that we just drank,” I started asking, as I looked at Christiaan with what he’d no doubt label a measure of desperation. “Well, once the water is recovered from the treatment process,” he said, pointing to some reed-like plants and a wet-land of sorts next to the treatment tanks, “you could easily drink it; it’s probably better than most bottled water! But, no, the water we use in the restaurant is from a spring.”

Relieved, I took another look about as the rest headed back toward the 4x4. Had it not been for the complete absence of any nasty smells from the open aeration tank next to us, I would have been grossed-out enough at this early stage to end my visit there and then.

Instead I began to wonder if Christiaan’s uncomplicated application of biodynamic principles – right down to performing certain composting activities based on where the moon is in the night sky – might in fact be more than hocus-pocus window dressing. After all, the vines produce some truly fabulous wines, despite being spared the privilege of spring water.

Our next stop was to inspect a conventionally-farmed vineyard that Christiaan is in the process of converting to a biodynamically tended one. Intrigued I questioned him about the need for a gradual change - surely if there’s a better way of doing something, you should just do it, I suggested. Listening to Christiaan explain that years of orthodox vineyard management had robbed the soil of the necessary nutrients, microbes and plants needed to allow it to function as a dynamic living system, and that getting things back to ‘normal’ was best tackled over time, put me at ease, and in my place. The vines too need time to build up their strength, he said, pointing out the odd diseased leaf as he explained that regular spraying robs the plants of life in return for marginally better yields.
I found myself a step closer to buying in to his take on Steiner’s philosophy, but, like Thomas, I needed something tangible to bring the message home – and said as much.

“Well let’s take a look next door,” he smiled as he led us to a vineyard literally metres away. The vines looked much as the others had, to me, until Christiaan highlighted some glaring differences. The vine leaves showed no signs of mould, silica-binding Dandelions grew prolifically between the rows and there was no moss on the ground. The latter is a sure sign that the ground is compacted and that water is most likely not making much headway when trying to find its way down to the plant roots. “This soil hasn’t been worked at all this season,” he said as he bent down and stuck his hand into the soft earth – right up to the wrist. As he held out a fistful of dirt and humus, and shared that the vineyard received about half as much water as its neighbour,yet produced about 80% the yield, I had no need to look for any nail marks; I was convinced.

As our tour continued, via the beautiful Percheron horses that have replaced tractors on the farm and the many wine half-barrels filled with earthworms that break down the restaurant’s organic waste to produce the concentrated basis of some of the preparations fed to the vines in the winter, I couldn’t help but ask Christiaan about some of the stranger biodynamic practices.

Yes, amongst other things he buries cow horns filled with manure in autumn and digs them up in spring to produce a ‘tea’ which he uses as a fertilizer; Chamomile (both local and exotic) gets the same treatment – save that the horn is replaced by Bovine small intestines and he’s adamant, as microbes are central to the biodynamic way of life, that astronomical influences are best not ignored, despite being difficult to quantify exactly. His motivation is consistent, considered and generally sensible: the biodynamic approach has proven itself to work at Waterkloof, so rather than dismissing it, questioning one’s own preconceptions is possibly more enlightening.

Sometime later, as I stood at the ten-metre-high glass wall of the restaurant with its commanding view over False Bay, I found myself listening to the deserved oohs and aahs brought on by recounting the exquisite dishes Gregory had presented to round off our visit. Pressed for my favourite I found it impossible to choose just one and as I looked down on the Percherons, resting from their work in the vineyards, I realised that the item that had moved me most was Christiaan’s serving of a little biodynamic food for thought.

The Restaurant at Waterkloof is closed for the month for June (from 3 June to 3 July) but tastings and farm visits continue; call 021 858 1292 for more information.

Classic Wine says the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 is one of SA's best!

Classic Wine says the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 is one of SA's best; and if Classic Wine says it's true - it's true! That mag even gets a mention in the latest edition of The Month...

The Graham Beck press release: Graham Beck Wines has once again shown that not all that sparkles is Cap Classique; having placed in the annual top ten listings for two of South Africa’s leading varieties, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

At the Classic Chenin Blanc Top Ten for 2012 held in February, the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 was among the wines selected in a category that has risen from the status of a ‘workhorse’ variety to a promising contender as South Africa’s signature wine[1]. The name Bowed Head derives from the shape the body assumes when tending the venerable vines; knees on the ground and head bowed over, in due deference. The vineyard yields tiny quantities of concentrated grapes; this giving rise to a richer, riper style with nuances of pineapple, honeysuckle and cinnamon spice. A natural, fresh acidity promises the longevity of the wine. 

Because Chenin Blanc “takes on everything you give it” says winemaker Erika Obermeyer in reference to using oak, larger barrels were used exclusively to add creaminess and palate weight. The elegant austerity and minerality shown in the wine is inspired by the wines of Loire; a particular passion of Erika’s.

In quick succession, another wine made by Erika, Graham Beck The Coffeestone Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, was chosen in the Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report Top Ten 2012. The top mark of five stars awarded to the wine was decided by the judges unanimously, in the inaugural issue of a report that aims to “scrutinize the front-runners” of a variety in which South Africa “can compete with the world’s best”[2]. 

Cabernet Sauvignon is a favourite of Erika’s among the red varieties; a grape that she sees as a “challenge” in terms of showcasing its true-to-cultivar character and specificity. The Firgrove terroir, the source of The Coffeestone, has Erika’s highest esteem as Cabernet Sauvignon territory. 

“The secret of the Firgrove terroir lies in its ancient coffeestone soils; very unique deep, granite gravel on weathering clay,” she says. “The very old bush vine vineyard we use for the Coffeestone wine is located in clear view of False Bay, from Hangklip to Simonstown, and cool breezes ensure a long and slow fruit ripening. Continual breeze controls the vigour of vineyard growth; the net result being small bunches of tiny berries with concentrated fruit, and structured but ripe tannins in the wine.”

Ripe berry fruits and tobacco spice characterise Cabernet Sauvignon produced from this terroir, and these are found in abundance in The Coffeestone. The judges for the Eedes report found “subtle notes of cassis, floral perfume and pencil shavings”; and yet exceptional fruit purity, “fresh acidity, and firm but fine tannins”. “Reigned-in power”, excellent structure and age-worthiness were noted; and the cellaring recommendation was up to 2024.

Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 and The Coffeestone Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 are available from the Graham Beck cellar at a price per bottle of R110 and R180 respectively. Orders can be placed with Chantel Matheus; telephone 021 874 1258 or email wineclub@grahambeckwines.co.za. 

Specialist retail outlets include Norman Goodfellows, Makro Woodmead, Caroline’s Fine Wine, Wine Concepts on Kloof Street, Cellars Hohenort, Cape Grace, Mount Nelson, and Parklane Cellars in Pietermaritzburg.

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[1]Classic Wine, February/March 2012, p. 39, ‘The Classic Chenin Blanc Top Ten’.

[2]  The Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report Top Ten 2012, pp. 1 -2.

The Best of The Best

The Editor enjoys a Feast of Shiraz at Hartenberg | The Month June 2012

At the most recent Syrah du Monde competition in France, Hartenberg Estate’s The Stork Shiraz took the honours as the world’s best Shiraz. No wonder the folks at Hartenberg are on top of the world and what better time than now to host their fabulous Feast of Shiraz and Charcuterie, where some of the finest flagship local Syrahs from leading cellars are paired with superb artisanal fare?

Aware that some may read through the pages of this particular mag after the 2nd of June festival date, and unable to report on the festival itself for the purposes of this edition, I sought out Hartenberg’s legendary winemaker, Carl Schultz, to chat about the state of South African Shiraz.

Carl was the top of his graduating class at Elsenberg in the late ‘90s and joined Hartenberg as winemaker in 1994 before being appointed Estate Director a couple of years later. He was invited to join the Cape Winemakers Guild in ’96 and such was his reputation that he was soon asked to serve as the Guild’s
Chairman. It’s a reputation that has continued to grow yet the  widely travelled and extremely knowledgeable, Carl comes across as a humble man who loves wine as much as he does life and who never seems to tire of sharing his passion for all things vinous - particularly Shiraz.

After dealing with my introductory questions about the nature of the 2012 harvest and the likely quality of the resultant wines – both of which Carl is positive about, thanks to the exceptional fruit quality this year, despite the slightly lower-than-average yield – Carl turned his attention to five bottles of Shiraz from a number of producers on show at the Festival. I commented that he hadn’t included anything from Hartenberg (hoping he’d see past my veiled comment and reach for a hidden bottle of The Stork – which he didn’t) and asked about the wisdom of hosting a festival in which ‘the competition’ was given a chance to compete for Hartenberg’s client-base.

Carl’s forthright answer says a lot about his belief in the quality of the Estate’s offering and that of the better Shiraz producers in the country – he’s proud of South African Shiraz, believes in its inherent value and acknowledges the massive variety the grape displays once the winemakers’ have done their thing. As South African wines go, both the domestic and international markets have proven that it’s a varietal wine of choice and sales are consistently on the up. Hartenberg’s Shiraz Festival is about celebrating the significance of Shiraz, and Carl is particularly happy to be in the kind of position that allows him to show off the best of the best, and not just the Estate. Adding Charcuterie and some artisanal fare to the mix turns it into a true festival and a day of celebration for visiting families, the Estate staff and Carl himself.

Tasting through the five Shiraz wines on offer it was immediately evident that Carl’s intimate knowledge of the products of a large number of producers has allowed him to fully refine and carefully justify his own approach to producing Hartenberg’s offering. Yet he does this without ever doing anything less than comfortably highlighting the best aspects of ‘the competition’. Descriptors such as fruit-driven; savoury; elegant; almost austere; French Oak; American Oak; longevity; bright; Forest-floor and caramel all made their way into my notebook – though not all for the same wine! Shiraz truly offers something for everyone and I found myself easily matching each wine to a different occasion and would happily have bought a bottle of each had they been on offer.

I said as much and got a naughty grin from Carl, “See you on the second then!” he beamed before we raised our glasses again in salute of the success of Shiraz.

Visit www.hartenbergestate.com for more on the Bottelary estate or see our What’s On? Pages for more on the Hartenberg Shiraz and Charcuterie Festival.

Looking Good Together

Norman McFarlane tastes the alchemy of Andrea Freeborough | The Month June 2012

blend [blεnd]
vb
1. to mix or mingle (components) together thoroughly
2. (tr) to mix (different grades or varieties of tea, whisky, tobacco, etc.) to produce a particular flavour, consistency, etc.
3. (intr) to look good together; harmonize
4. (intr) (esp of colours) to shade imperceptibly into each other
n
1. a mixture or type produced by blending
2. the act of blending

What’s missing in the above set of definitions is the word ‘wine’, and in particular, in the following definition: 2. (tr) to mix (different grades or varieties of tea, whisky, tobacco, etc.) to produce a particular flavour, consistency, etc.

Platter’s South African Wines 2012 on the other hand, gives the following definition: Blend A wine made
from two or more different grape varieties, vintages, vineyards, or containers. And it is in that last part – “vineyards, or containers” - that lies the reason so many apparently single varietal wines are so very good. Because whilst they might be single varietal wines, they are at the same time, blends, and to be precise, intra-varietal blends.

A fascinating tasting in the Die Bergkelder cellar deep in the Papegaaiberg overlooking Stellenbosch, where Andrea Freeborough practices her alchemy to produce Fleur du Cap wines, highlighted just how important the art of blending is, in crafting a fine single varietal wine.

The Fleur du Cap Unfiltered range includes a Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, each of which is constructed, not from wine from a single vineyard, or a single estate, or for that matter a single ward, district or region, but from up to four different wines of the same variety, from multiple districts, regions or wards. We tasted our way through twelve wines in total, some or all of which will find their way into the Fleur du Cap Unfiltered range.

Take for example, the soon to be released Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Sauvignon Blanc. Andrea and her winemaking team considered four different components from Elgin, Stellenbosch, Lutzville and Cape Agulhas. Each brings a particular set of characteristics - aromas, flavours, minerality, acidity – that are deemed to be necessary to produce a balanced final wine, that satisfies a set of carefully defined stylistic criteria. During the tasting, the subject of Sauvignon Blanc style came up for discussion. Would the crisp, fresh, green style redolent of green pepper and asparagus perpetuate, or was the market shifting towards a more sumptuous tropical fruit style? After much discussion it emerged that Fleur du Cap at least would continue to pursue the greener, fresher style, until its market, both local and overseas, suggests that a stylistic shift is necessary.

But where do these different characteristics come from? Why does Stellenbosch produce Sauvignon Blancs that exude tropical fruit notes like gooseberries, melons, guavas and passion fruit, while grapes from Darling are all about grassy, green pepper and asparagus? In a word, terroir. Okay, terroir is no simple word. In wine terms, it is possibly one of the most debated and the most contentious,  but irrespective of what your understanding of the word may be, most everybody would agree that climate (and weather) is the single most significant variable, arguably followed by soil.

Listening to viticulturalist Bennie Liebenberg describing each of the four locations where these Sauvignon Blancs grow, and why they present the characteristics that they do, puts the role of terroir into perspective.

But is it all about variables over which we have no control? Disregarding for a moment the long term consequences of human activity manifesting itself in shifting global weather patterns, there isn’t terribly much that one can do in the short-term to influence climate and weather. By like token, the soil that you have, is the soil that you have. To a lesser extent, the vines you have, oriented to the passage of the sun, and planted and trellised as they are, are what they are. Ripping out vineyards and replanting them is a costly and long-term business, not lightly undertaken.

At a micro level, giving or withholding water via irrigation, can and does influence how grapes develop, but what can be achieved is limited. If the vineyard is dryland, you’re deprived of this tool.

Which leaves canopy management and all of the attendant viticultural practices, to manipulate how much fruit each vine produces, and to a greater or lesser extent, berry size, sugar level and flavour profile. Turning once more to Sauvignon Blanc as an example, the popular green aromas and flavours are dependent on the level of Methoxypyrezene in the grapes, which is controlled by the amount of light and heat the berries are exposed to.  Canopy management is therefore critical in Methoxypyrezene control, which must be balanced against the need to avoid the berries getting sunburnt. It’s a complex, finicky business.

“My philosophy on good wine growing is pretty simple: Find a balance in the vineyards that are situated on excellent terroir and ensure proper vineyard management by controlling the crop through proper pruning techniques, canopy management and irrigation. This is the basis of a good harvest of quality grapes needed for the making of our wines,” reckons viticulturist Bennie. But listening to him talk about the lengths he goes to in the vineyards of the 300-odd producers from whom Fleur du Cap buys grapes, it becomes evident that Andrea and her winemaking team rely on Bennie to deliver the precise components they need to craft each of the Fleur du Cap unfiltered range.

The blending decisions had largely been made when we tasted the wines with Andrea and Bennie, with final blending planned for the following week. How they are likely to turn out was suggested by the current vintages which we drank over lunch after the formal tasting.  Uniformly impressive (as yet unreleased) 2011 Semillon, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Merlot and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon suggest that winedrinkers will be beating a path to their local wine retailers to lay in a stock. In the meantime, enjoy the current vintages.

All Fired Up!

Jill Peper heads to Durbanville to experience an explosion of flavours at Ke-Monate

For over 300 years, the signal gun on Hooggelegen Farm has been sounding out across the Durbanville valley.  It was originally part of a signal chain installed by the Dutch East India Company to call the Burgher Militia to defend the Cape. 

Today it stands guard proudly over the entrance to Ke-Monate, the Boutique Wine Cellar and Restaurant on the farm which is situated at the end of Hooggelegen Road, off  the Visserhok Road/M48, just outside Durbanville. 
Wouter de Wit, the fourth generation owner of Hooggelegen, enjoys restoring old cannons, and many of these can be seen lining the restaurant car park.

‘Ke-Monate’ means ‘That’s nice!’, in Sotho and the name was given to the establishment by Ryk’s Sotho-speaking wife, Elmi, who grew up in the Free State.

Morkel Jacobus (MJ) de Wit and his wife Estani are the fifth generation of the de Wit family to run this
historic, scenic farm.  Having opened their doors to the public in October 2010, they converted an old farm house into what is now the charming restaurant, last year. Situated alongside an active water spring, the venue enjoys a panoramic view across the farmlands towards Durbanville. 

 “We wanted to create a warm friendly atmosphere in which to enjoy the boutique wines of the farm (Signal Gun Wines) and the wines from the other Boutique Wine Estates in Durbanville”, explained MJ. “It was also important to us to offer a venue where relaxed, informal food could be served which is also good value for money,” Estani added.

They have succeeded in creating a place where friends and families can share a meal together, where sundowners can be enjoyed on the stoep at the end of a busy day, and where special events can be celebrated.

The interesting menu of tapas, wraps and platters, together with daily specials, offers something for everyone.  On Wednesday evenings the restaurant adopts an Italian theme and cuisine and Chris Swanepoel adds a layer of authenticity as he entertains with contemporary Italian music.  On Thursday evenings the theme is Mexican, and on Friday evenings between 4pm and 7pm they offer something they refer to as “Wine-ing Down” time, as Rupert Mellor entertains into the evening.

On the 25th and 26th May, ‘Ke-Monate’ presents their  Art and Shiraz Celebration evenings at which the work of local artists is to be displayed, a communal meal will be shared, and Chris Swanepoel’s music will entertain.

Although Hooggelegen is one of the oldest family-owned wine farms in Durbanville, it was only in recent years that they started experimenting with producing their own estate wines.  Their Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc have done them proud.  These are bottled under the “Signal Gun” label.

In the next couple of months they will be adding a Rosé and a lightly wooded Chardonnay to their collection, and a Merlot is on the cards for next year.

Wine tasting takes place on Fridays and Saturdays in the Tasting Cellar, where R20 buys you an opportunity to sample the two Signal Gun wines and three of the Durbanville boutique wines.

They also host a Wine and Dinner Club on the 3rd Tuesday of every month which gives guests a chance to learn about different local and international wines, under the guidance and instruction of Cape Wine Master Charl van Teijlingen, the winemaker of Maison de Teiger. 

On the first Saturday of the month, the signal gun is fired at noon, as a reminder to all within earshot, that they are open and cooking up an explosion of flavours and good times.  Listen out for it, or better still, go along and join them for a meal!


Ke-Monate is pleased to offer readers of The Month 10% off their restaurant bill, valid from Tuesday morning until Friday lunchtime, for the month of May, on presentation of this article - No photocopies please! Booking is recommended.

Ke-Monate can be contacted at 021 976 7343 for enquiries and bookings.  They are open Tuesday – Saturday 9h00 – 22h00 and Sunday 9h00 – 16h00.

For other interesting places to explore, visit www.capecountrycalls.co.za.

LOST IN LAYERS

Johan Delport, Cellar Manager at Waverly Hills, chooses Vrede en Lust Boet Erasmus 2009 as our Wine of The Month

The Vrede en Lust Estate, outside Paarl, is the perfect place to visit over a weekend. The impressive and well-maintained historical buildings, the layout of the gardens and the attractive interior finishes all make it worth the visit – and then there are all the delightful wines... This Bordeaux blend is named after the grandfather of the current owners, the Buys family. My first experience of the same Boet Erasmus was as a young boy watching the Springboks play the British Lions from a seat on the Boet Erasmus Stadium in Port Elizabeth in 1980 with
my father, and getting lost in the rain. It is so good to find oom Boet again!

This wine, under screwcap, has everything you would expect of a top class Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. It has layers of ripe black and red fruits with balanced oak complementing it all the way through. The palate confirms the complexity and stays long enough for you to appreciate its careful crafting.

It sells at R150.00 per bottle and is certainly worth the purchase of at least a few.

Divide and Rule!

Dave Rundle takes a long-term view of companies that pay dividends

Market volatility is again on the increase as Sovereign Debt issues resurface and although we have seen this movie before, I think we will continue to see re-runs for a while yet. Unfortunately, making money in this low interest rate environment requires some risk taking.

I went to a very interesting presentation the other day by the offshore manager of an Equity Income Fund. The core of his presentation was that shares paying dividends have tended to be good defence plays, especially in times of volatility.  This is because dividends offer an income stream that may be attractive relative to other options - such as fixed income rates. It is a fact that companies who pay dividends typically have better business models, stronger balance sheets and a higher degree of confidence in their secular growth capabilities. And research shows that in a bear market stocks that pay dividends have gone down, on average, about half as much as those that do not.

Earnings reports are also showing that companies are in good shape with decent cash flows and recently we have seen companies returning capital to shareholders through both dividends and buy-back programs. Spare cash has been used to lower debt levels and companies have become much leaner and more efficient than in the past – a trend I believe will continue.

Although dividend payout is a function of earnings growth, the strength of the balance sheet and the current payout level are two other important factors. Most managers seeing moderating growth in earnings are finding balance sheets that are cash rich and stronger than ever. But investors must also be wary of buying companies with the highest dividend yield. They could be paying out an unsustainably high level of earnings as dividends, or it can indicate the company has little prospect for future growth. Dividend yield alone is no indicator of dividend health, and is why extensive fundamental research is the best way to approach equity markets.

According to the presentation, dividend yield and dividend growth have accounted for over 90% of long-term returns so clearly dividends matter. But if your investment horizon is less than two years, rather stay in cash.


This article is solely intended to provide you with objective information about financial products and services and is not intended to constitute a recommendation, guidance or proposal with regard to the suitability of any product in respect of any financial need you may have.

Dave Rundle 083 658 8055
Rundle Management Services