The Best of The Best

The Editor enjoys a Feast of Shiraz at Hartenberg | The Month June 2012

At the most recent Syrah du Monde competition in France, Hartenberg Estate’s The Stork Shiraz took the honours as the world’s best Shiraz. No wonder the folks at Hartenberg are on top of the world and what better time than now to host their fabulous Feast of Shiraz and Charcuterie, where some of the finest flagship local Syrahs from leading cellars are paired with superb artisanal fare?

Aware that some may read through the pages of this particular mag after the 2nd of June festival date, and unable to report on the festival itself for the purposes of this edition, I sought out Hartenberg’s legendary winemaker, Carl Schultz, to chat about the state of South African Shiraz.

Carl was the top of his graduating class at Elsenberg in the late ‘90s and joined Hartenberg as winemaker in 1994 before being appointed Estate Director a couple of years later. He was invited to join the Cape Winemakers Guild in ’96 and such was his reputation that he was soon asked to serve as the Guild’s
Chairman. It’s a reputation that has continued to grow yet the  widely travelled and extremely knowledgeable, Carl comes across as a humble man who loves wine as much as he does life and who never seems to tire of sharing his passion for all things vinous - particularly Shiraz.

After dealing with my introductory questions about the nature of the 2012 harvest and the likely quality of the resultant wines – both of which Carl is positive about, thanks to the exceptional fruit quality this year, despite the slightly lower-than-average yield – Carl turned his attention to five bottles of Shiraz from a number of producers on show at the Festival. I commented that he hadn’t included anything from Hartenberg (hoping he’d see past my veiled comment and reach for a hidden bottle of The Stork – which he didn’t) and asked about the wisdom of hosting a festival in which ‘the competition’ was given a chance to compete for Hartenberg’s client-base.

Carl’s forthright answer says a lot about his belief in the quality of the Estate’s offering and that of the better Shiraz producers in the country – he’s proud of South African Shiraz, believes in its inherent value and acknowledges the massive variety the grape displays once the winemakers’ have done their thing. As South African wines go, both the domestic and international markets have proven that it’s a varietal wine of choice and sales are consistently on the up. Hartenberg’s Shiraz Festival is about celebrating the significance of Shiraz, and Carl is particularly happy to be in the kind of position that allows him to show off the best of the best, and not just the Estate. Adding Charcuterie and some artisanal fare to the mix turns it into a true festival and a day of celebration for visiting families, the Estate staff and Carl himself.

Tasting through the five Shiraz wines on offer it was immediately evident that Carl’s intimate knowledge of the products of a large number of producers has allowed him to fully refine and carefully justify his own approach to producing Hartenberg’s offering. Yet he does this without ever doing anything less than comfortably highlighting the best aspects of ‘the competition’. Descriptors such as fruit-driven; savoury; elegant; almost austere; French Oak; American Oak; longevity; bright; Forest-floor and caramel all made their way into my notebook – though not all for the same wine! Shiraz truly offers something for everyone and I found myself easily matching each wine to a different occasion and would happily have bought a bottle of each had they been on offer.

I said as much and got a naughty grin from Carl, “See you on the second then!” he beamed before we raised our glasses again in salute of the success of Shiraz.

Visit www.hartenbergestate.com for more on the Bottelary estate or see our What’s On? Pages for more on the Hartenberg Shiraz and Charcuterie Festival.

Looking Good Together

Norman McFarlane tastes the alchemy of Andrea Freeborough | The Month June 2012

blend [blεnd]
vb
1. to mix or mingle (components) together thoroughly
2. (tr) to mix (different grades or varieties of tea, whisky, tobacco, etc.) to produce a particular flavour, consistency, etc.
3. (intr) to look good together; harmonize
4. (intr) (esp of colours) to shade imperceptibly into each other
n
1. a mixture or type produced by blending
2. the act of blending

What’s missing in the above set of definitions is the word ‘wine’, and in particular, in the following definition: 2. (tr) to mix (different grades or varieties of tea, whisky, tobacco, etc.) to produce a particular flavour, consistency, etc.

Platter’s South African Wines 2012 on the other hand, gives the following definition: Blend A wine made
from two or more different grape varieties, vintages, vineyards, or containers. And it is in that last part – “vineyards, or containers” - that lies the reason so many apparently single varietal wines are so very good. Because whilst they might be single varietal wines, they are at the same time, blends, and to be precise, intra-varietal blends.

A fascinating tasting in the Die Bergkelder cellar deep in the Papegaaiberg overlooking Stellenbosch, where Andrea Freeborough practices her alchemy to produce Fleur du Cap wines, highlighted just how important the art of blending is, in crafting a fine single varietal wine.

The Fleur du Cap Unfiltered range includes a Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, each of which is constructed, not from wine from a single vineyard, or a single estate, or for that matter a single ward, district or region, but from up to four different wines of the same variety, from multiple districts, regions or wards. We tasted our way through twelve wines in total, some or all of which will find their way into the Fleur du Cap Unfiltered range.

Take for example, the soon to be released Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Sauvignon Blanc. Andrea and her winemaking team considered four different components from Elgin, Stellenbosch, Lutzville and Cape Agulhas. Each brings a particular set of characteristics - aromas, flavours, minerality, acidity – that are deemed to be necessary to produce a balanced final wine, that satisfies a set of carefully defined stylistic criteria. During the tasting, the subject of Sauvignon Blanc style came up for discussion. Would the crisp, fresh, green style redolent of green pepper and asparagus perpetuate, or was the market shifting towards a more sumptuous tropical fruit style? After much discussion it emerged that Fleur du Cap at least would continue to pursue the greener, fresher style, until its market, both local and overseas, suggests that a stylistic shift is necessary.

But where do these different characteristics come from? Why does Stellenbosch produce Sauvignon Blancs that exude tropical fruit notes like gooseberries, melons, guavas and passion fruit, while grapes from Darling are all about grassy, green pepper and asparagus? In a word, terroir. Okay, terroir is no simple word. In wine terms, it is possibly one of the most debated and the most contentious,  but irrespective of what your understanding of the word may be, most everybody would agree that climate (and weather) is the single most significant variable, arguably followed by soil.

Listening to viticulturalist Bennie Liebenberg describing each of the four locations where these Sauvignon Blancs grow, and why they present the characteristics that they do, puts the role of terroir into perspective.

But is it all about variables over which we have no control? Disregarding for a moment the long term consequences of human activity manifesting itself in shifting global weather patterns, there isn’t terribly much that one can do in the short-term to influence climate and weather. By like token, the soil that you have, is the soil that you have. To a lesser extent, the vines you have, oriented to the passage of the sun, and planted and trellised as they are, are what they are. Ripping out vineyards and replanting them is a costly and long-term business, not lightly undertaken.

At a micro level, giving or withholding water via irrigation, can and does influence how grapes develop, but what can be achieved is limited. If the vineyard is dryland, you’re deprived of this tool.

Which leaves canopy management and all of the attendant viticultural practices, to manipulate how much fruit each vine produces, and to a greater or lesser extent, berry size, sugar level and flavour profile. Turning once more to Sauvignon Blanc as an example, the popular green aromas and flavours are dependent on the level of Methoxypyrezene in the grapes, which is controlled by the amount of light and heat the berries are exposed to.  Canopy management is therefore critical in Methoxypyrezene control, which must be balanced against the need to avoid the berries getting sunburnt. It’s a complex, finicky business.

“My philosophy on good wine growing is pretty simple: Find a balance in the vineyards that are situated on excellent terroir and ensure proper vineyard management by controlling the crop through proper pruning techniques, canopy management and irrigation. This is the basis of a good harvest of quality grapes needed for the making of our wines,” reckons viticulturist Bennie. But listening to him talk about the lengths he goes to in the vineyards of the 300-odd producers from whom Fleur du Cap buys grapes, it becomes evident that Andrea and her winemaking team rely on Bennie to deliver the precise components they need to craft each of the Fleur du Cap unfiltered range.

The blending decisions had largely been made when we tasted the wines with Andrea and Bennie, with final blending planned for the following week. How they are likely to turn out was suggested by the current vintages which we drank over lunch after the formal tasting.  Uniformly impressive (as yet unreleased) 2011 Semillon, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Merlot and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon suggest that winedrinkers will be beating a path to their local wine retailers to lay in a stock. In the meantime, enjoy the current vintages.

LOST IN LAYERS

Johan Delport, Cellar Manager at Waverly Hills, chooses Vrede en Lust Boet Erasmus 2009 as our Wine of The Month

The Vrede en Lust Estate, outside Paarl, is the perfect place to visit over a weekend. The impressive and well-maintained historical buildings, the layout of the gardens and the attractive interior finishes all make it worth the visit – and then there are all the delightful wines... This Bordeaux blend is named after the grandfather of the current owners, the Buys family. My first experience of the same Boet Erasmus was as a young boy watching the Springboks play the British Lions from a seat on the Boet Erasmus Stadium in Port Elizabeth in 1980 with
my father, and getting lost in the rain. It is so good to find oom Boet again!

This wine, under screwcap, has everything you would expect of a top class Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. It has layers of ripe black and red fruits with balanced oak complementing it all the way through. The palate confirms the complexity and stays long enough for you to appreciate its careful crafting.

It sells at R150.00 per bottle and is certainly worth the purchase of at least a few.

Another Wine Festival? Sweet!

Cobie van Oort tells us why we should plan to attend the 8th Winter Wine Festival | The Month May 2012

With the kind of cold weather we’re sure to experience in May, wine lovers will no doubt begin to turn their thoughts to hearty winter dishes paired with rich wines, to be enjoyed beside a roaring fire.  It’s early days yet, but be sure to plan get to the 8th Winter Wine Festival at High Street Shopping Village in Durbanville from the 21st to the 23rd of June.

The festival offers visitors an opportunity to taste a wide range of Ports, brandies, dessert wines, Muscadels, Jerepigos and a selection of red and white wines and a chance to stock up ahead of the coldest part of the year.

Two of the interesting sweeter wines that will be on show at this year’s festival are Perdeberg’s Weisser Riesling - a natural sweet wine which is perfect with cheese or even instead of a dessert,  and Solms-Delta’s ‘Gemoedsrus’ which is a complex, fortified Port-like sweet wine that brings to mind brandy-spiked
Christmas cake!

Elize Walters, the PR and Marketing Manager of Propergation Estates, which presents the Festival, says that “for the first time we are including wines from Chile and Italy as well as creating a market atmosphere with our food exhibitors.  Visitors are encouraged to relax and linger at the festival; and with the regular wine theatre presentations, live music and food courts, we hope they will!”

With nearly 30 wineries and 20 food stalls pulling out all the stops, there’s every reason to linger and to make the High Street Shopping Village home for a few hours. The Durbanville Round Table have been chosen as the beneficiaries of monies raised via the festival, so you’ll have the added benefit of knowing that you’re there for a good cause.

On-site sales are encouraged and storage will be available from where purchases can easily be transferred to the parking areas.

Ticket prices are R80pp if bought on-line and R90pp at the door.  Pensioners’ and groups of more than 10 pay R70pp. Tickets are available at www.ticketbreak.co.za  from 1st of May or at the door during the festival. For more information visit www.winterwinefestival.co.za

Perdeberg Weisser Riesling Natural Sweet, R80 per bottle at the cellar
This low alcohol Riesling is a ‘sticky’ to be sure – with almost 133g of residual sugar! It has a beautiful pale yellow colour with immediately evident whiffs of honeycomb and apricot on the nose and perhaps even a little lime. There’s a fresh acidity to the palate that deals adequately with the sugar, but still allows the wine a sweet finish. Try it with rich cheeses, a sweet pudding or simply on its own!

Solms-Delta Gemoedsrus 2010, R220
This 100% Shiraz, fortified with Shiraz husk spirit, was matured for 15 months in mostly new French oak barrels, to retain the primary fruit aromas. It is a dark wine with hints of almonds on the nose and cocoa on the palate. With a little less than 80g of residual sugar it a decent sweet wine for the weight-conscious, but be warned – at 18.5% alcohol it may skip your hips and go straight for your head!

A Cheyne_Reaction

The Editor enjoys some food and wine at the Holden Manz Franschhoek Kitchen | The Month May 2012

“I made Kate Moss eat” reads part of the Twitter bio of Chef Cheyne Morrisby, the new man in charge of the Franschhoek Kitchen at the Holden Manz wine estate. Anyone prepared to share a claim like that, deserves a little attention.

So it was with pleasure that I accepted an opportunity recently to join Cheyne at the Franschhoek Kitchen to enjoy one of the Holden Manz “Winemakers’ Dinners” and a night’s stay over at the Holden Manz 5-star Country House – lest the winemakers got me to drink the way Cheyne got Kate to eat. The dinners are a relaxed affair and generally see the chef pair four dishes to each of the four wines presented, by four different winemakers, on the night.

The theme of the evening was ‘Shiraz’ and after a little bubbly upon
arrival and some convivial chatter on the restaurant terrace that overlooks a vineyard or two in the direction of the Guest House, we took our seats to put both winemakers and chef to the test.

A 2009 Eagle’s Nest Shiraz was paired with Venison tataki, a grape and onion marmalade and goats cheese. The white pepper, evident on the nose of the Shiraz, and the dark red berry flavours that follow were made all the fresher and cleaner thanks to the venison and, as introductions go, I can’t imagine many being better.

With plates cleared and another round of wines poured, this time the Mullineux Syrah 2010, it was clear that, at our table at least, diners were gearing up for a good time. That three of the four winemakers happened to be our table companions and that the gentleman and his wife opposite me were authentic French wine farm owners from Champagne, certainly helped. Not that any of the other tables seemed lacking in characters!

The Mullineux Syrah 2010 is more smoky black pepper than white, yet exhibits an almost Fynbos-like scent; it’s a seriously attractive wine and was my favourite of the night. For this wine Cheyne produced an Asian mushroom medley with a puff pastry square and deep fried coconut milk. The latter had us tasting, re-tasting and deliberating for long enough to call for a top-up of our wine and conclude that the pairing had resulted in a hung jury.

The main course for the evening was a Rack of Lamb, wasabi cream potatoes and a pomegranate and ginger glaze. Glancing down at the menu I saw that the lamb had been paired with the Holden Manz Shiraz 2008. Looking up I caught the eye of Schalk Opperman, the Holden Manz winemaker. “This is an eighty-rand bottle of wine,” I said rather bluntly, “and you think it’ll carry main better than any of the others that go in the two-hundred-plus category?” Schalk laughed nervously. “I haven’t had the dish that Cheyne’s going to serve, but I trust him,” he responded, still nervously. “And if he’s wrong,” he continued, “I can always say I didn’t make this wine!”

The pairing of the succulent lamb, with all the intense flavours brought to the plate by the rich accompanying miso jus, surprised all at our table. “Pity you can’t take credit for the wine, hey Schalk,” teased one of the other winemakers, as he managed to wangle a top-up. The ripe fruit flavours of the 2008 Holden Manz Shiraz are balanced by strong savoury characteristics and a full, soft mouth feel – it was perfect with the lamb and a bit of kick in the pants for those of us who tend to shop according to price.

A dessert of Blue Cheese Cheesecake with fig tempura and toasted sesame brittle completed the evening’s line-up and was paired with a recently bottled 2009 AA Badenhorst Shiraz/Mourvedre/Grenache/Cinsault. Despite not yet settling fully in the bottle, the wine’s obvious pedigree was already in evidence with a pepper and perfume nose and overt black cherry flavours. The wine’s dry yet flavourful finish made it a perfect partner to the not too-sweet cheesecake.

As those of us who weren’t heading off home across the Winelands lingered to enjoy coffee and the tranquillity of the evening outside, I thought back to my high school physics lessons involving chain reactions. Funny that we were never taught that there are some chain reactions that simply lead to smiles. 

The next Winemakers’ Dinner takes place on Wednesday the 16th of May and features Merlot. See the ad below for contact details.

Holden Manz presently has a special rate on accommodation at their Country House, and from May to the end of July, the Winter Secret package is only R995 per person per night. The picturesque setting just outside Franschhoek, amidst fruit orchards and vines, is secluded enough to offer peace and complete privacy, but not that far removed from everything to leave you feeling isolated.

The Country House features some exquisite art pieces, a beautiful courtyard koi pond, comfortable rooms with private outdoor seating and the best breakfast and service I have experienced in a long time. The attentive staff had me feeling at home from the moment I entered the front door and the additional offering of the adjacent spa, the Franschhoek Kitchen or a picnic on the banks of the Franschhoek River close by, make this a must-do for anyone intent on experiencing the best that the Winelands has to offer.

Phone 021 876 2738 or e-mail collette@holdenmanz.com for bookings.

Writing Room with a View

With harvesting over, it’s time for books and passion, writes Catriona Ross | The Month May 2012

Every novelist needs a place. A literary hangout. A corner of the world conducive to free-range thought and fresh prose. For some, this might mean a laptop in a garage, away from the sounds of Top Gear and kids squabbling. However, if, like me, you’d prefer something a little more like Pemberley, Mr Darcy’s estate in Pride and Prejudice, consider retreating to the Winelands.

An ex-city journalist married to a tango-dancing farmer, I write in a sweet spot between Paarl, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, a neighbourhood heaving with all the ingredients of a novel.

We have Characters, from sabre-wielding winemakers and Méthode Cap Classique pioneers, to celebrity
chefs like Reuben and Margot Janse, and a diamond mogul set high on a hill. 

We have Conflict. Yeah, I also thought ‘harvest time’ sounded cool and rustic – until I realised it lasted seven months and is the annual Olympics of relationship endurance.

We have Heroes. Like me, when Tango Farmer phoned in the middle of the night to say, ‘Ag sorry, man, the motorbike’s run out of petrol’. I had to bundle the baby into the bakkie and rescue him from a neighbouring wine estate, where he was checking pumps by moonlight. 

We have Romance. Despite the fact that Tango Farmer spent Valentine’s Day pumping water from the Berg River into his parched dam, we did celebrate harvest’s end at the Wellington oesfees, lazing under oak trees and savouring The Stone Kitchen’s wild boar burgers with sage and apple, while Die Heuwels Fantasties crooned. Later, while dancing tango at Slaley wine estate, we managed to fall in love again.

We have Drama. From farm attacks to raging mountain fires every summer to porcupines raiding the herb garden: take your pick.
We have Villains, such as the nonchalant Namibian syndicate who swept through the neighbourhood a few months ago, cutting holes in fences and whistling while they cleaned out farmhouses of computers and flat-screen TVs.

We have Plot, always thickening. Some say they saw a ghost bidder driving up prices at the auction of a Stellenbosch wine estate. And according to neuro-psychologist Mark Solms, the ghost of Tango Farmer’s great-great grandfather walks the garden at Solms-Delta, and flicks the light switches in his psychoanalyst wife’s consulting room (only after hours, though). 

We have Setting. Jagged mountains, majestic valleys and purple-prose sunsets to make a book editor blush. You’ll have to tone everything down if you’re writing literary fiction.

We have Inspiration. Novelists need lavish inner resources to draw upon, ideally spending two hours a week filling the ‘inner well’, says Julia Cameron, creativity expert and author of The Artist’s Way. Catch an art movie and a glass of local wine at Le Quartier Français’s plush mini cinema, read French poetry in a Franschhoek chocolate shop, and partake of our seasonal pleasures. Autumn on the farm means black-skinned figs with opulent pink flesh, and porcini mushrooms blooming in the pine forest behind our house, their sexy, rich flavour best enjoyed in risottos or simmered in cream with tagliatelle, fresh herbs and parmesan.

Winter is drawing in, and I can almost hear the rustling of pages, the soft crack of book spines from the Franschhoek Literary Festival. It’s time to sip Terra del Capo Sangiovese beside a fire and catch up on reading, flirting, doodling, journaling. Hey, you might end up writing a book, or initiating some other passionate activity. As Agatha Christie remarked, ‘I don’t think necessity is the mother of invention. Invention, in my opinion, arises directly from idleness, possibly also from laziness.’ So if you can’t go five minutes without checking your Blackberry, unplug from daily life and find your true place in the Winelands.

A Place To Hide

The Editor discovers The Jackal and Hide on Kloof Street | The Month May 2012

Regular readers of The Month will know how passionate I am about the culinary offering of Cape Town and the surrounding Winelands. I can’t claim to be particularly knowledgeable about food or foodie folk, but I do know what I’m prepared to pay for and will happily cover the 150-odd kilometre return-trip from my home in Franschhoek to potter* about the City Centre or wind my way to The Restaurant at Waterkloof, via Hermanus. So I’m always excited to meet like-minded people such as Linda Brash, who sent me some news about a relatively new Cape Town based offering, The Jackal and Hide.

Situated on that ‘stretch of heaven’ to those looking for a diverse offering of trendy places to eat, Kloof Street, the attractive restaurant has a beautiful view of Table Mountain and a menu conceptualised by
Octavio Gamo, of El Bulli fame.

Here’s the gist of what Linda shared with me: The Jackal and Hide, which opened to the public late December last year, is the result of the thoughts and efforts of Gavin Cohen and Federico Scarpecci.

Cohen is an inspirational designer and has used his artistic talents to create a beautiful dining space, which he describes as “Victorian with a contemporary touch”. Previously an old, distressed building, Cohen effected the transformation by “[bringing] in slick finishes and different textures to create a warm, relaxed space in which to enjoy a meal with friends.”

Scarpecci was previously associated with the Bang Bang Club and is more focused on the operations side of things, “I wanted to give Cape Town a brand new venue to enjoy excellent food with a view. For me, service is really important and we strive to deliver quality food and service – each and every time - in the most beautiful city in the world!”

Both men are passionate foodies and the menu is evidence of this. Given that it displays the influence of Gamo, you’ll have guessed that it isn’t going to be cheap, but I’d happily peg it as a good-value-for-money option. Starters range from R45 for an Asparagus in Orange Tempura dish to R120 for Fois Gras served with red wine and toasted breads (be warned though that the constantly changing nature of the menu means that not all dishes are available all the time). Mains include kingklip, lamb or chicken dishes at R70-odd and head towards R135 for the deconstructed Salmon Fish Cake and sour pepper sauce. Desserts range from 35 to 50 bucks, and the Mango Ganache with mint foam at the bottom end of that scale is good enough to want to buy twice! And in that vein I notice that their current special runs on a Monday, when you can pick up two main meals for just R120. Obviously booking on a Monday is essential.

Of particular interest to me, is the wine list which includes many wines chosen specifically to complement the menu and the cosy bar area, called The Hide, which has a large selection of spirits.  If you’re fond of cocktails, the Kloof Street Cooler is certainly worth a try – but best perhaps on one of the sunnier winter’s days we’re sure to experience in the months ahead. On that note the outside terrace is the place to be seen and offers the most spectacular view of Table Mountain and is the perfect place to soak up the sun.

Thanks to its location, the excellent menu and the highly-rated service, The Jackal and Hide has become an increasingly popular spot and a couple of calls to Cape Town locals made it clear that calling ahead is advisable – especially as the venue can be hired out exclusively to host private functions.

The Month and The Jackal and Hide have two R500 meal vouchers up for grabs.  All you need to do is go to TheMonthMagazine page on Facebook and post “Pick me for a meal at The Jackal & Hide!” to be in line to win.  The competition closes 15 May 2012. T&C apply*

The Jackal & Hide is open Monday to Saturday from 3pm till late, 108 Kloof Street, Gardens, 021 4241020.

*’potter’ is generally the euphemism I use when trying not to let on that I am lost…

When Gold is Just Not Enough

Izak Smit gives us a picture of the SAWi methodology

“With the proliferation of wine competitions and the plethora of awards and medals  that adorn wine bottles these days, Ed, how does the ‘average’ consumer know what constitutes a ‘good’ wine?” the Publisher asked me recently. Resisting the temptation to point out to him that ‘average’ is probably the kind of compliment I’d avoid when considering his wine knowledge, I did concede that the question is one I often grapple with.

I called Izak Smit, the project director of the South African Wine Index for a little advice. Izak identified the general merits of the Publishers question some years back and set about developing a method to quantify the various awards given to wines and to determine as objective a rating of the quality of a wine, over time, as possible.

After a lengthy correspondence, that left the Publisher confused and the Editor in search of a drink, we managed to hone it down to one paragraph and a very useful picture. We hope you get it.

At present, the index considers and aggregates all credible and blind-tasted wine scores and awards given to a wine, over a period of three years, into a single score out of a 100. In due course the single score will be represented as a split score to further categorise wines according to maturation periods and regions of origin.


See www.sawineindex.com for rated wines.   

Tsitsikamma Dreaming

The secret diary of an Otter Trailer, aged 14¾ | The Month May 2012

As many avid The Month readers will be aware, the Otter Trail is a hike along the pristine Garden Route coast that stretches from the Storms River Mouth to the east and winds back west to Nature's Valley.  Named after the Cape Clawless Otter which occurs in this region, the impression is of a soft, fluffy, cuddly trail over 26km as the crow flies. In reality, it is a scary and, in parts, dangerous little beast whose sharp teeth will catch out the careless, or unbalanced, hiker. Widely regarded as one of the finest in the world, the five day, four night hike traverses an unrivalled scenic landscape, largely hugging the rocky shoreline daily and climbing steeply and then descending to the beach or a river crossing where the overnight huts are located. The route is located entirely within the Tsitsikamma National Park, which protects an 80km strip of coastal mountains, forest and beaches. Here’s how a youngster may experience it.


Was supposed to arrive at 2pm but Dad didn’t realise Storms River was 60kms past Plett so he spent the whole drive biting his nails and swearing at the nice lollipop ladies at the four ‘stop and go’ road works between Riversdale and Mossel Bay. And then he rambled on about his fear for Garden Route tourism if we’re supposed to drive everywhere at 60 km/h, so I just played on my phone whilst pretending to read my book. Checked the booking form that says you can’t start the trail after 4pm but thought better of mentioning this.

4.15pm – Struggle to keep up as we finally head off into the forest and down to the coast. Feels like I’m carrying all the heavy stuff. The trail is pretty obvious but Dad keeps stopping to look at the map and points out the different species of fynbos (which all look the same to me) and wild flowers. I’m already getting hungry. Hit the shoreline and turn west. After a bit of rock scrambling, there’s this amazing waterfall where I fancied a swim but apparently it was getting dark – which it wasn’t.

Arrive at the first hut (which is called Ngubu) and meet ‘Ouma and Oupa’ – a really nice couple from PE who have hiked here before. Dad makes an embarrassing joke about thinking we were sharing a hut with the Swedish ladies topless volleyball team - which I ignore. So he starts to cook 2-minute noodles with biltong and a sachet of cool drink powder “because it’s light to carry” whilst our new companions tuck into their steak and wine. Water is brown but sweet to taste. Braai wood is provided so I keep the fire going. The stars are amazing and as I discuss Orion’s belt with Oupa, the wors disappears and Dad blames the monkeys but I think he stole it because he was jealous. The hut has six bunks so I choose the top one and we go to bed early.

Day Two: 7.9 km (± 4 hours)
Dad wakes me up with coffee and rusks at 7am and says we should get going. He sends me ahead with a stick as ‘the leader’ but really he just wants me to clear the spider’s webs. Really tough hiking with the backpacks but, thankfully, mainly in the shade of the forest. We get to an amazing rock called Skilderkrans and take pictures. The sound of the ocean is deafening! A bit further on we look down on a pristine beach called Bloubaai and if I’d had Polaroid glasses I could have seen the fish, I’m sure. The route is marked with yellow Otter prints which is practically the same colour as some of the lichen markings on the rocks and trees so I didn’t always know whether I was going the right way - fortunately there are a number of escape routes on the hike. Hectic climb at end of the day but the most amazing lookout at the top. Dad said the knee-jarring descent made Smuts Track seem like “a walk in the park” but I think he meant the Table Mountain National Park, actually. The Scott huts were really nice by the river mouth and Dad and I went for a swim where the water was crystal clear and warm. More 2-minute noodles for dinner…




Day Three: 7.7 km (± 6 hours)
Thankfully no sign yet of vultures but the bats are circling at dawn as we make coffee and stretch our tired legs - the huts are clean but the mattresses are pretty hard. Early on the hike we pass some graffiti on a rock which said ‘Lisa + Jordan 2.2.12’ which really annoyed Dad who went on about “pristine environments” and “the youth” for about half an hour afterwards. Tough, but not as tough as yesterday and the best bit was crossing first the Elandsbos river where we had to strip down to our onderbroekke and carry everything over. Most of today was in shade, thankfully, and right at the end of the hike there’s an amazing drop down into Oakhurst Hut across the Lottering River. Dad said this had the toilet with the best view in the world – and was there for about an hour enjoying it while I went for a swim in the river mouth. A pod of dolphins were smacking their tails on the water which Oupa said was to attract the fish and we watched the Gannets diving for fish out to sea until the sun went down – a really great feeling! Spotted our first Otter footprints in the lapa next to the hut, they were smaller than I expected.

Day Four: 13.8 km (± 4 hours)
You can order food and drink to be delivered to Andre Hut on the last night so we did that with intermittent cell phone reception. The thought of a couple of Coke’s later kept me on my toes all day - I never felt so alive! The longest day at 13,8km and although flatter than days 2 and 3 is certainly not flat! All the way I added stones to the cairns (piles of stones) that walkers have built up over the years and we worked out that only about 3000 people get to do this hike each year. Dad said he felt like Butch Cassidy looking back the whole time for the other group (they were six) and when we finally got to the Bloukrans River after about 10kms, it was high tide so we chilled by the river mouth and caught some rays. This is the one where they do the bungy jumping at the N2 and the cliffs are just as steep at the river mouth. As we were preparing to cross at mid-afternoon the other group arrived so we leant them our rope and helped them cross so that no-one got their stuff wet. That was really cool! After crossing, the hike up to the top again offered our first real view of Robberg so we knew we were not too far from the finish. That final night I slept like a baby after an open shower with a view of the Klip River mouth. We were so lucky to have met Ouma and Oupa - imagine sharing a hut with people you don’t like for four days!

Day Five: 6.8 km (± 3 hours)
The final day offered more amazing views and for the first time in four days the trail left the shoreline and we could experience the silence of the dense forest. After a couple of hours and a few small waterfalls, you see Natures Valley and hike (slide!) down onto the most beautiful beach at the finish. From there we got a lift back to Storms River and headed home but the drive was easier as Dad was more chilled. I’d definitely do it again – even though it was harder than I thought. I feel great!

Adventures in Cuisine

The Month visits the Dish Restaurant at Le Franschhoek Hotel | The Month May 2012

Responding to a recent invitation to visit the Le Franschhoek Hotel’s Dish restaurant, as the guest of Executive Chef Oliver Cattermole, I was particularly keen to see how the 2011 World Luxury Awards winning hotel would take to what their PR people referred to as a “a new culinary direction”, and to food that Oliver describes as “a little rustic but still elegant.”

Having arrived and parked, my date and I were greeted by smiling faces at the hotel’s main reception and shown to the Dish restaurant and an intimate spot at a table for two next to a large window overlooking the glass conservatories of Le Verger (the hotel’s other restaurant) and the beautiful Franschhoek valley below. Despite a number of tables playing host to patrons on the terrace off the main restaurant, and bodies dotted about the little ‘glass houses’ of Le Verger, our intimate spot was made even more so given that it seemed that many of the hotel guests were enjoying their sustenance outside, and
served in a glass.

In general the restaurant décor is understated, in a typical opulent hotel kind of way, and the tables were mercifully bare of extraneous table and glassware, leaving us space to catch up on a day rapidly passing, as candlelight flickered flatteringly in eachother’s eyes. “You look good in this light,” said my date. I thought about thanking her, then turned to order a glass of still water instead.

Service was brisk and friendly and as we enjoyed the occasional boom of Oliver’s broad accent emanating from the kitchen I caught myself singing quietly along to a piano version of Piano Man, played by a real pianist. Ever the clever one, my date smiled and said “You’ll sound great after a glass or two of wine.” I didn’t ask who she thought should consume it.

Our waitress arrived back at the table with glasses of Maison Chenin Blanc, courtesy of the chef, and an assistant bearing a beautifully presented salad of Beetroot with feta, salted orange segments and pickled walnuts. Even those who don’t count beetroot as a favourite will marvel at the sheer number of textures Oliver is able to extract from the humble veg and the many ways he plays with its flavours: sweet, savoury, smoky, smooth, crisp, delicate and full were all scribbled down as we oohd and aahd our way through the starter. The Chenin was a great match and highlighted some of the nuttier, earthy aspects of the beetroot, which in turn brought elements of the wine’s crisp white-fruit flavours to the fore. We were off to the perfect start – and certainly rustic, yet elegant.

A Mont Rochelle unwooded Chardonnay appeared next with a Woodland Mushroom soup and roasted cherry tomatoes, hot on its heels; and whilst the wine sparked some debate due to its robust nose, the soup hardly touched sides. “Is ‘smelly socks’ and acceptable descriptive term?” asked my date, looking at my notes. I hastily scribbled “Would have been interesting with a rose,” in its place and noticed the same date running her finger along the inside of the bowl to get at the last sweet and creamy soup smudges.

A Vrede en Lust Jess Rosé paired perfectly with our third dish, a ham hock terrine with mustard fruit and white bean puree – arguably Oliver’s Dish signature. A salty medley of textures, the presentation of the dish is all attention to detail, and I couldn’t help but signal as he greeted the recently-arrived patrons at a nearby table to suggest that keeping this up would be impossible on a busy night. “I’ve just had ten guys arrive and take my last 20 portions of fish; and each plate will be worth looking at,” he smiled, without a hint of sarcasm or arrogance. Ironically our next serving was fish too – a smoked, slow cooked salmon with tartar, citrus mayonnaise and brown bread that had me Tweeting the kind of thing that most would attribute to the equivalent of a culinary stalker. Paired with a Groote Post Sauvignon Blanc it was, without a doubt, the highlight of my night.

A perfectly cooked Maple Glazed Duck Breast and a fruity Hoopenberg Pino Noir then preceded a pause to stretch our legs and a chance to prepare for the Chocolate and Hazelnut Dacquoise with salted caramel ice cream and orange syrup, served with a not-too-sweet Muscadel.

As I sipped the last of my wine and gave in to the temptation to end the evening as my date had started – by cleaning every hint of food from the plate – I reached for my pencil to make a list of the dishes I plan to try on a subsequent visit. “Please just take a picture of the menu,” said my date, “we both know you’re going to copy down the whole thing!”

Their new winter menu:

To commence

Duck bon-bon with parsley root puree and hot pickled vegetables

Oak smoked salmon with tar-tar, citrus mayonnaise and brown bread

Forest mushroom soup with semi dry tomato and mushroom soil

Pan seared scallop with celeriac, golden cauliflower and ras el hanout

Roasted beetroot with whipped goats cheese, pollen and cured figs

Compressed pork with apples and croissant crisp

To follow

Chicken Bourguignon with boudin blanc, mash and sauce périgourdine

Line fish du jour

Dry aged beef fillet with stout braised barley and onions

A taste and textures from the garden

Roast rump of Karoo lamb with minted mash and young carrots

Pissaladière of red onion, spinach with artichokes and goats cheese

Thyme roasted venison, milk poached turnips with potatoes boulangère and bread sauce

To finish

Apple and sultana crumble with white chocolate ice cream

Goats milk pannacotta with mulled pears and walnuts

Barrel smoked chocolate fondant with cognac ice cream with home made nutella

Brioche treacle tart pain d épice anglaise with winter jelly  

Carrot cake textures with golden sultana puree and walnut candy

Quo Vadis Local Wine Marketing?

The White Wine Ou* wants locals to drink more | The Month May 2012

Wines of South Africa (WOSA) ran a conference last month in Stellenbosch promoting the Nigerian export market to local wine producers. This is not the first time, nor will it be the last time that WOSA promotes wine exports, which is of course entirely in keeping with WOSA’s brief. Why else would it be paid 7c for every litre of wine exported from South Africa?

According to the SA Wine Industry Directory 2011/12, we exported 378 549 900 litres (of a total 780 700 000 produced) of wine in 2010, contributing R26 498 493 to WOSA’s coffers. That’s a tidy sum of money in anybody’s language.

Opinion is divided on just how efficacious WOSA is in
promoting wine exports. There is a faction which belittles virtually everything that WOSA does, suggesting that the payoff to exporters does not justify the levy paid. There are those who believe the opposite: that WOSA has done much to increase our export market penetration in key markets like the EU, America, Russia and increasingly African markets like Angola and Nigeria. Trouble is, it is very difficult to say with any certitude, what impact a particular action taken by WOSA has had on wine exports.

Why? Because not all export promotional initiatives are executed by WOSA. Producers large and small send winemakers, marketers and brand ambassadors to many of our key markets every year, where they spend money, time and shoe leather in promoting their various offerings. Such focussed initiatives are arguably more effective at creating producer-specific (and therefore more measurable) demand than WOSA’s more shotgun-style approach (no disrespect intended).

Whichever side of the WOSA fence you may find yourself on, it remains that a funded organisation that exists to promote South African wines abroad. Unfortunately the same cannot be said of an inward-focussed organisation, similarly funded, which could do much to promote wine consumption in South Africa. “Is it necessary?” you may ask.

Yes it is! Per capita consumption of alcohol (in litres) has declined from 2001 to 2010 for most sectors of the local liquor market. The actual market shares over the decade deserve further scrutiny: Alcoholic fruit beverages (3.3 to 6.2), whisky (2.8 to 5.1) and sparkling wine (0.2 to 0.4) shares have all but doubled, with beer (42.4 to 46.1), brandy (5.9 to 6.1) and fortified wine (1.9 to 2.4) showing more modest gains. Shares of traditional African beer (24.6 to 16.6), natural wine (14.0 to 12.6) and other spirits (4.9 to 4.5)   have all declined.
Clearly the wine industry has suffered locally, experiencing declining per capita consumption, as well loss of market share.

This is even more telling when one considers that  in 1994 there were around 350 000 ‘middle class’ families in the country, and that there are now an estimated 3.8 million; the bulk of which do NOT drink wine.

The bleat that an internally focussed WOSA equivalent would not get off the ground because of powerful corporate wine interests (that would see it as a threat to their market dominance) is so much hooey, that it should be summarily dismissed. The pending alcohol advertising ban makes it obvious that the battle lines have clearly been drawn between government and the liquor industry, so now is the time for that industry to take the initiative, and voluntarily fund an organisation which can focus on the large untapped market with a clear message promoting responsible consumption.

The alternative is a regime that will cause aggregate decline in consumption, while doing little or nothing to reduce alcohol abuse, the admitted expectation of the proposed ban on alcohol advertising.

*The White Wine Ou writes regularly for a number of well-known South African publications on topics that range from food and wine to politics and the environment. Recognising the freedom he has at The Month to speak his mind, he intends to do just that. We’ve agreed to allow him to use a nom de plume as occasionally his comments may well cause some to reach for the shotgun…

A Toast To Good Taste

We visit Taste SA in Franschhoek and see virtually every wine in SA | The Month April 2012

Trying to get to grips with that ever-changing beast that is the SA wine industry – from the many family run, small scale producers  to the massive cooperative cellars – is no mean feat, and it’s no wonder then that getting to know the wines produced by that beast is more than daunting for most.

Aware that our regular wine contributors, Cybercellar.com have had some success with introducing a broad range of palates to a massive array of wines and many of South Africa’s most loved producers, we popped over to their Taste SA facility in Franschhoek for a chat to team-member Stefan, to get an idea of what it is that set’s their offering apart from the rest.

The rather swish tasting room in The Yard takes an interesting approach to making its wines available by showcasing up to 14 different wines from a selection of estates and producers, at any given time. What’s immediately clear is that Taste SA and Cybercellar work hand-in-hand giving supporters of the online store the chance to enjoy more than a virtual drop and those visiting Taste, the chance to purchase any of the wines available through Cybercellar (and to say there are many is a euphemism!). Be warned though,
the tasting room only has the 14-odd wines on show at any given time available for tasting, so don’t expect to walk out of the place with arms laden the way you would a liquor store; instead the Cybercellar team will have your wines, from all over the country, delivered to a door of your choice.

Tastings are R50 per person, with optional cheese platters also available, and you can expect to see the likes of Boschendal, Glen Carlou, Topaz, Oak Valley, Diemersdal, Diemersfontein, Amares, Oldenburg, Boschkloof, Marianne, Meerlust, Mont Rochelle, Sumaridge, Spier, Dieu Donné, De Grendel, Steenberg, Elgin Vintners and many, many more.

Noting my impressed gasp, Stefan wasted no time to add that he has a couple of wines available at the moment that come with free nationwide delivery. “I live just up the road,” I point out. Sharp as a tack Stefan points out that with the kind of savings I’m likely to enjoy, it’s time to move. For the record here are the two wines he recommended that come with that free delivery:

Bartinney Wines Noble Savage Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Blend 2009, R65 per bottle for 6/R59 per bottle for 12
The intense, powerful flavour of the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend is classic dark fruit and black berries and integrates absolutely beautifully with the softer, sexier, more sensuous cherry and raspberry nose of the Merlot.  The palate is round and concentrated, with spicy fruit and juicy tannins! This is an absolutely superb wine that will go well with a range of food and achieved a 4-star rating in Platter’s.                                                              
FREE SHIPPING TO ANYWHERE IN SOUTH AFRICA!

Druk My Niet Wine Estate Mapoggo White 2009, R49 per bottle for 6/R47 per bottle for 12
At first, this wine impresses the nose with layers of fruit that include pineapple, mango, peach and dried apricot. On the second whiff the unmistakable hints of Melon and Green Apple come to the fore and follow through on the palate, perfectly  complemented by hazelnut and vanilla flavours courtesy of the wood. It’s a surprisingly big wine given it’s relatively low alcohol content of 12.5%.
FREE SHIPPING TO ANYWHERE IN SOUTH AFRICA!

Email Stefan stefan@cybercellar.com for orders or more info on Taste SA and Cybercellar.com

Win tickets to The Riebeek Valley Olive Festival

The quaint little Swartland towns towns of Riebeek Kasteel and Riebeek West come alive as they showcase the best they have to offer in food, wine and olives in May.

A past winner of the West Coast Tourism Awards in the ‘Tourism Event’ category, the Riebeek Valley Olive Festival will showcase the diversity of olives by offering a wide selection of olives to buy, delicious olive oils, preserves, tapenades and an assortment of olive-based beauty products. Amongst the many new activities at this year’s festival will be an Olive Emporium, a country fair, a fresh goods market and an Olive Martini bar.

Whilst in the area visitors are encouraged to visit the local wineries for tutored tastings or simply to sample the wines at their leisure. Live entertainment will also be on offer.

An R80 passport, valid for the entire festival weekend allows you entry to the various wine farms, the town based marquees, a complimentary tasting glass and a free tasting of olives or wine.

For more information and a full list of participants email olivefestival@gmail.com or phone 082 909 1116 / 084 207 3820 and tickets may be purchased at www.webtickets.co.za

WIN! The Month has FIVE double tickets to give away courtesy of the festival.
Simply SMS the word Month and your name and contact details and the name of the suburb in which you live to 36968 or email the same details to olive@themonth.co.za (closing date 20 April 2012)

Smuts was no Bathmophobe...

The Publisher tackles Table Mountain | The Month April 2012

Until I had followed a group of American students up Skeleton Gorge I had no reason to doubt the old adage that ‘there are more stars in the sky than there have been words spoken’. Now I’m less sure. Fortunately, being considerably older, my more frequent rests ensured a distance between us that eased both the relentless pounding at my ears and that on my knees.

Enjoying one such rest on my way up the wooded eastern side of Table Mountain, I find myself regretting the previous night’s excesses and my keenness to impress the Editor, and wonder: Was it on John Maytham’s Rapid-Fire Quiz that I first heard of Bathmophobia - the
fear of slopes or stairs?

Nursery Ravine and Skeleton Gorge are both stepped routes that run up Table Mountain either side of a large slab of rock near the top called Nursery Buttress, and are often described as providing ‘the easiest and quickest ways up the mountain’. If you were enjoying the cricket at Newlands and had extremely powerful binoculars, you’d see a tired, middle-aged guy half way up disagreeing with this. And before you ask – there’s technically no difference. Both ravines and gorges are ‘deep, narrow valleys with steep sides’.
Indeed they are.

So, having paid your R40 entrance to Kirstenbosch Gardens (or stolen in free from Constantia Nek), you’ll soon find yourself on the forested contour path faced  with the decision of Ravine or Gorge. From here, above the gardens, both start gently with plenty of shade on a hot summer’s day and the mottled sunlight illuminates the upward paths that snake through ferns and labelled trees. Now heading into autumn, the streams barely drip.

Nursery Ravine, I think, is slightly tougher. The lie of the land dupes you initially and then becomes unrelentingly steep as the wooden and stone steps zigzag up the ravine to a wooden staircase that signals the top. From here a 500 metre walk through the peaceful, leafy wonderland of Nursery Valley brings you to the sandy edge of the Hely-Hutchinson Reservoir and an opportunity to cool off.

Skeleton Gorge, I gather, is the more popular route and Field Marshal Smuts’ preference. Because I envisage him as an old man, I’m impressed, but conclude it must have been his favoured walk when he was a young, fit officer. There’s a sign that warns of ‘steep and dangerous conditions ahead’ at the start and, although a more ‘even’ ascent, is not without its fair share of steep ladders and slippery rocks.

Either way you’re booking out a good two hours of ascent and will go from about 160 metres above sea level to 740 metres! The awe and size of Table Mountain only becomes apparent when you’re as close up as this and the views (and photo ops) are plentiful on both routes – especially over the Peninsula and to False Bay. To many, I’m sure, the reservoir will be a welcome surprise so my advice is not to rush the knee jarring decent and rather take some time exploring the top of the world.

Fashionably Yours - April

Annamé Lotz dons her ‘leathers’ | The Month April 2012

Ask trendsetters like Alexa Chung, Rihanna and Sharon Stone to point out the next big thing on the fashion horizon and they’re likely to suggest that much-loved item, leather pants.

No longer reserved for aged rock stars and hairy bikers, leather pants are for everyone – but they do come with a bit of a warning: They are as difficult to wear right, as they are versatile.

To wear leathers as a normal pair of pants, you’ll need to be rather skinny and well-toned, as leather tends to cling to skin. A useful alternative is to wear this ‘second skin’ as you would leggings; combined with
a longer top to cover up.

If you’re inclined to be a little more open-minded, leather pants can be extremely versatile and I’m willing to suggest that they might even be the new denim of the season! Dress them down for a casual look by pairing them with quirky pumps and a soft-knit jersey or cardigan. 

Make it office-appropriate by keeping things simple and pair your leather pants with classics such as a well-cut white collar shirt and nude heels. The result is sure to be ultra-sexy and make for a surprisingly sophisticated look. 

Get ready for a great evening out and put on a sequined frock and a great pair of heels.  If you dare, swop the frock for a funky top and a cropped jacket and prepare to get noticed for all the right reasons.
Take a walk on the wild side; experiment with this trend and I’m prepared to suggest that you’ll be more than pleasantly surprised!

PHOTOGRAPHER: Ashley-Marie Miles
MODEL: Nikki Leigh Horsten
MAKE-UP, HAIR & STYLING: Annamé Lotz

Green Focus: Bamboo

From The Month April 2012

DID YOU KNOW?
Bamboo is not a type of wood, it’s a grass • Bamboo is stronger than oak and has a tensile strength greater than steel • The sugars in bamboo give it its beautiful natural colour variations • Bamboo produces 30% more oxygen than other plants • Bamboo survived the Hiroshima atomic bomb and re-greened the same year • Pandas do not feed on the type of bamboo used in bamboo flooring (Mao/Moso bamboo), which means that the endangered Panda is unaffected by bamboo farming • Thomas Edison used bamboo filaments in his first light bulbs, and one of those bulbs is STILL burning today, at the Smithsonian in Washington D.C.

Info and images courtesy The Bamboo Warehouse, see more at www.bamboowarehouse.co.za

The BIG Thing about being small

Jill Peper visits the Renosterveld of Clara Anna Fontein | The Month April 2012

“What is Clara Anna Fontein all about?” I asked Justin Basson, the owner of the beautiful Clara Anna Fontein private game reserve and country lodge, situated just outside Durbanville, 20 minutes from Cape Town.

“Well, what do you think we are all about?” he countered.

I enthused about the scenic setting of the farm, the game drives,  the largest free roaming herd of Wildebeest in Cape Town, the five function venues,  the team-building events, the Tented Camp, the African Huts and popular film shoot location, the self-catering farm cottages and more.

As I spoke, I watched the light die in his eyes.  Clearly that was not the right answer!

I then found out what the true passion of his heart is, and what the driving force is behind all that is done at Clara Anna Fontein. It’s all about saving the Renosterveld!

Justin spoke about the fact that here in the Western Cape we are home to the smallest Plant Kingdom in the world that rather surprisingly also contains the largest variety of plants.  There are over 5 400 endemics (plants that are only found here), while the UK has only 51 - that really puts things in perspective.

Sadly, the Renosterveld has shrunk to small pockets of vegetation, found mainly on farms and in nature reserves.  “This is the most endangered habitat in Africa and probably in the world, with only 4% still remaining,” Justin explained.

Justin’s mission in life is to rehabilitate the Renosterveld on their land, allowing it to spread back into the areas previously farmed.  The agents of change for this long, slow process are the game on the farm, as well as birds and the wind, and as they carry the seeds from the endangered veld into the former farmlands, the Renosterveld is gradually starting to reappear and spread.

Along with the plants, come many creatures that only survive in this environment and that are now being given a new lease on life, and some, such as the Cape Dwarf Chameleon, the Geometric Tortoise and the Parrot Beak Tortoise, have literally been brought back from the brink of extinction. 

I wasn’t wrong about any of the delightful attractions of this interesting farm, but the heart of the matter is that Clara Anna Fontein is practising land restitution of a different kind, and giving back to Nature!
For more information go to www.claraannafontein.com or visit www.capecountrycalls.co.za for other places of interest to call on in the area.

Is MasterChef SA a MasterGroan?

The White Wine Ou takes on the Master Chefs | The Month April 2012

(This article was written following the first episode of the first season of MasterChef SA)

Is it just me, or is the much anticipated MasterChef  SA a load of tripe? Episode one of 18 aired Tuesday March the 20th, and we were treated to scenes of inept judges trying very hard to appear intimidating, and contestants doing their very best to outdo their American counterparts, shedding enough tears to extinguish a Cape Winelands summer fynbos fire.

There is a fine line between drama and melodrama, and the show’s director ought to know that… unless the intention was for the show to be overly melodramatic to the point of being over-the-top.

If, as it is suggested, MasterChef  SA is modelled on the excellent
MasterChef  Australia, then whoever did the observation of the latter, and subsequently modelled the former, clearly missed most every point.

MasterChef  Australia ran for nine months, rather than 18 weeks, giving the contestants ample opportunity to hone their skills, which made the competition that much more fierce, and the standard of cuisine that much higher – the contestants who left the show along the way, had actually learned a great deal by the time they were axed, and the winner was equipped to run a multi-million dollar restaurant. How much can you learn in 18 weeks?

The Australian judges were not only well qualified, they were polished presenters, skilled in maintaining the level of tension without tediously drawing out each moment of decision. To their credit, none of them tried to emulate anybody else, preferring instead to formulate their own strong characters in relation to each other, and the intention of the programme. No grandstanding, no gratuitous comments, and meaningful feedback for contestants.

Unfortunately the same can’t be said for the local trio. Pete Goffe-Wood’s demeanour is an uncomfortable combination of Gordon Ramsey and Idol’s Simon Cowell, with each persona attempting to assert its authority in a Jekyll and Hyde like contest.

Benny Masekwameng comes across as an indulgent father who, when he must extend a reprimand, does so with significant discomfort, tinged with embarrassment.

Andrew Atkinson is MasterChef  SA’s very own Spud, with the same degree of social ineptitude and bumbling desire for acceptance at all costs as portrayed in the title role of the film so effortlessly by Troye Sivan, but without the same effortless flair.

Okay, it is ‘Reality TV’, which is to say that is doesn’t in any way remotely reflect reality (why on earth would anybody watch it if it did?), but there is a vast difference between engagingly staged and compellingly watchable ‘reality’, and over the top melodrama, that attempts to hide the inadequacies of a poorly conceived and undoubtedly very expensive TV series, behind inept judges and overly emotional displays by the contestants. MasterChef  Australia was very much the former, MasterChef  SA is very much the latter, thus far.

Hopefully I’ll be proven wrong in the coming weeks, in which case I’ll gladly withdraw my criticisms, but if the other recent foreign clone to hit SA’s TV shores – Come Dine with Me South Africa – is anything to go by, I won’t be holding my breath.

(For the record the White Wine Ou is not Australian – Ed)

What an eXperience!

The Editor comes to grips with his Terios, thanks to Land Rover | The Month April 2012

On a recent magazine delivery run to the home of Kaapse Vonkel bubbly, Simonsig Estate just outside Stellenbosch, I bumped into Wilma van Wyk of the Land Rover eXperience who wasted no time in making a beeline for my Daihatsu Terios 4x4, as she sang the praises of The Month.

A little taken aback, I just nodded and smiled. You see, I’m generally the one who has to listen to the Publisher complain about my need to apply myself “more readily to the task of an editor and less to that of wine reviewer” and I must admit that I always explain that the Daihatsu is The Wife’s car - no real man would drive a dinky SUV like the Terios with any real off-road aspirations; and I am a real man.

“So it’s settled then,” she confirmed, praises still ringing in my ears, “Thursday 11am. And don’t forget that lunch at Cuvee is included.” As I made my way into the Simonsig tasting area it began to dawn on me that I
had possibly made a serious mistake: I had agreed to take my own car (or should that be The Wife’s?) on a 4x4 track that I had attempted previously in a Land Rover and chickened out of. Even if the kind offer of a little bubbly as I entered the tasting area hadn’t distracted me, I would have failed to come up with a suitable exit from the invitation. So Thursday 11am was diarised and washed down with another sample.

The Land Rover eXperience is essentially a marketing programme run by Land Rover that offers 4x4 SUV owners an opportunity to receive specialist 4x4 training in either their own vehicles or those of Land Rover. What’s more impressive than the fact that there are eXperience centres all over the world, is that the introductory course is offered free to anyone with a 4x4 SUV bought after 2005. I’m not sure how it works at other centres, but the one based at Simonsig concludes with lunch at Cuvee and a little bubbly to settle the nerves.

The track itself is not particularly difficult – it’s the culmination of an introductory course aimed at the first-time off-roader after all – but it is designed to give both car and driver an overall workout and to demonstrate the kinds of techniques that bundu-bashers need to have comfortably under the belt.

A short dusty drive through some of the Simonsig vineyards and over a train track brought me to the start of the course. Having crossed the train track successfully I demonstrate my excitement at having dealt with the first obstacle with such ease by employing the kind of air-punch that Windhoek Lager drinkers are barred from entertaining. The course presenter for the day, and ace 4x4 guy, Wynand, uses his walkie-talkie to gently (but publically) point out that the first obstacle is in fact the “small incline ahead” of me. The incline turns out to be the near side of a dam wall that must be all of 3 metres high and appears practically vertical from a distance. The old school joke about the pirate’s brown pants comes to mind.

Wynand proceeds to use instructions like “maintain your momentum”, “keep your wheels straight” and “don’t panic” and by the time I open my eyes the obstacle is behind me. Had I been able to let go of the steering wheel, another air-punch would have followed.

From the dam wall the track snakes about a bit to give drivers exposure to some tight corners, rutted and corrugated stretches, a rocky patch that makes those without low-range gearboxes work the clutch and brake like a man dancing in a Weber, and a side incline.

The latter is accompanied with the warning that while some 4x4s can climb 45 degrees, few can manage more than 30, side-on. I try to work out what the angle of the little stretch I am to cover is and give up just before closing my eyes for the second time. Easy as pie the obstacle is navigated and Wynand walks over smiling, he reminds me that if ever I find myself in a similar situation, and the car starts to slip down the slope, I must always remember to steer down; and to open my eyes.

Some way along the track I come upon two drivers, who, having done the theory earlier and taken a spin in one of the impressive Landies on offer, have decided to put an X-Trail through its paces. I jump out with a macho swagger and suggest that the course is a piece of cake. Mark Burrows, an active outdoorsman and the regional rep for Mitsubishi Air Conditioners, smiles and points to something up ahead. “That’s the tough one,” he says solemnly. His brother, Roger, is behind the wheel of the X-Trail and I take his quiet and focussed demeanour as my cue and get back into the Terios.

The term “tough one” turns out to be a bit of a euphemism. In every sense a donga, that needs to be tackled with a touch more speed than will make most feel comfortable, the obstacle essentially gets first the back right and then the front right of the car pointing skyward thanks to a gaping hole that swallows the front left wheel at the point of entry and then literally spits out driver and vehicle in a cloud of dust and expletives. Despite keeping my eyes open (for all five attempts at the damn thing) I can’t actually recall getting through it – but I did. If I had a swagger before, it’s paled into insignificance now and if anyone asks, I drive the Terios, the envy of many a real man…

 A short drive later, via another descent and a couple of three-point turns, we find ourselves back at the damn wall, this time to go straight down it and on to Cuvee for a wonderfully tender Chalmar beef lunch and a well-deserved glass of Kaapse Vonkel.

As Mark, Roger and I reflect on the day’s experience I can’t help but look over at my dust and mud-covered Terios and smile. “You’re hooked,” says Mark. And thanks to Wilma, Wynand and the Land Rover eXperience, he’s right!

Contact Wilma van Wyk of the Land Rover eXperience on 021 852 0728 if you have an SUV bought after 2005 and want to know more.

A Toast To Tapas and Wine

The Publisher and Editor enjoy a little French Toast in Cape Town | The Month April 2012

When the Publisher, who never seems to tire of the Cape Town vibe and its cosmopolitan make-up, called to say he’d stick me to tapas and wine at the trendy French Toast Wine and Tapas Bar off equally trendy Bree Street recently, my first thought was:  “Please, not on a Monday”.

You see, on Mondays French Toast has an unbelievable offer of a 50% discount on all their wines priced R400 or less, and there are many on that list that both he and I count as favourites. And when the Publisher offers to pay, I know I’m in for the long haul as it nearly always involves “the next big thing” for The Month.

Arriving early, on a Monday after all, I parked close by and headed through the downstairs bar area to sit upstairs at the long raised table that forms a focal point in the small, but airy, ex-warehouse. The exposed
brick and steel and the many windows lose what could be a cold edge, thanks to some tasteful decorating in muted colours and the clean and simple  settings of the dining tables that line the walls. It’s clear that the relaxed and uncomplicated approach that greets the eye is meant to be indicative of the general approach here, and as I notice another bar area at the far end of the upstairs space, a friendly waitress offers me a wine and tapas menu respectively and the kind of smile that says she’s doing what she loves.

As I’m early, I mention that I’m going to wait for a friend and pull out my 2012 Platter’s and a copy of the latest The Month. “Oh, that’s a brilliant read,” she says, still smiling. Chuffed I thank her and explain that it’s “my baby”. “Wow,” she says, a little taken aback, “you’re the first person I’ve met from Platter’s.”

With the arrival of the Publisher there’s a flurry of activity; we relocate to sit at a regular table, in comfy chairs and with space to spread ourselves out a bit. We quickly dispense with listening to an explanation of the tapas items, the wine specials and the inside info that things will get a bit hectic later as there is to be a function at the bar. Happy for the relative quiet we unwind our way through a bottle of Constantia Glen Three without an agenda and a bit of small talk and for once the man sitting opposite me says something that really sinks in. “I like this place,” he says looking about, “it’s got a good feel about it, but I think these guys work hard.”

As if on cue, Karin Visser, one of the owners of French Toast arrives at our table with her own broad smile and an offer to replace our empty bottle with another or something different. Keen for a chat we quiz Karin about the business and discover that this serious golfer was once a biokineticist. Why on earth, I ask her, would she want to make the radical shift into the restaurant business? Her answer is as honest as it is simple: she loves wine and people and had no reason not to believe that the venture would be a success. In October this year the restaurant will be two years old and she’s still excited about things – and gets time to work on improving her handicap. No wonder she’s happy.

Feeling relaxed but picking up on the energy that now seems to be filling the place (the function guests have arrived, some with gifts and others with volume) we order from the tapas menu and settle on another sub-four-hundred rand wine, a Tamboerskloof 2007.

The food – all of it, from prawns to meatballs and aubergine chips to patatas bravas - is tasty and adequately supplement the main stars of the French Toast show for me; the wine and the relaxed but smart space in which to chat and enjoy life.

Contact 021 422 3839 or visit www.frenchtoastwine.com for info.