Classic Wine says the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 is one of SA's best!

Classic Wine says the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 is one of SA's best; and if Classic Wine says it's true - it's true! That mag even gets a mention in the latest edition of The Month...

The Graham Beck press release: Graham Beck Wines has once again shown that not all that sparkles is Cap Classique; having placed in the annual top ten listings for two of South Africa’s leading varieties, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

At the Classic Chenin Blanc Top Ten for 2012 held in February, the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 was among the wines selected in a category that has risen from the status of a ‘workhorse’ variety to a promising contender as South Africa’s signature wine[1]. The name Bowed Head derives from the shape the body assumes when tending the venerable vines; knees on the ground and head bowed over, in due deference. The vineyard yields tiny quantities of concentrated grapes; this giving rise to a richer, riper style with nuances of pineapple, honeysuckle and cinnamon spice. A natural, fresh acidity promises the longevity of the wine. 

Because Chenin Blanc “takes on everything you give it” says winemaker Erika Obermeyer in reference to using oak, larger barrels were used exclusively to add creaminess and palate weight. The elegant austerity and minerality shown in the wine is inspired by the wines of Loire; a particular passion of Erika’s.

In quick succession, another wine made by Erika, Graham Beck The Coffeestone Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, was chosen in the Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report Top Ten 2012. The top mark of five stars awarded to the wine was decided by the judges unanimously, in the inaugural issue of a report that aims to “scrutinize the front-runners” of a variety in which South Africa “can compete with the world’s best”[2]. 

Cabernet Sauvignon is a favourite of Erika’s among the red varieties; a grape that she sees as a “challenge” in terms of showcasing its true-to-cultivar character and specificity. The Firgrove terroir, the source of The Coffeestone, has Erika’s highest esteem as Cabernet Sauvignon territory. 

“The secret of the Firgrove terroir lies in its ancient coffeestone soils; very unique deep, granite gravel on weathering clay,” she says. “The very old bush vine vineyard we use for the Coffeestone wine is located in clear view of False Bay, from Hangklip to Simonstown, and cool breezes ensure a long and slow fruit ripening. Continual breeze controls the vigour of vineyard growth; the net result being small bunches of tiny berries with concentrated fruit, and structured but ripe tannins in the wine.”

Ripe berry fruits and tobacco spice characterise Cabernet Sauvignon produced from this terroir, and these are found in abundance in The Coffeestone. The judges for the Eedes report found “subtle notes of cassis, floral perfume and pencil shavings”; and yet exceptional fruit purity, “fresh acidity, and firm but fine tannins”. “Reigned-in power”, excellent structure and age-worthiness were noted; and the cellaring recommendation was up to 2024.

Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 and The Coffeestone Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 are available from the Graham Beck cellar at a price per bottle of R110 and R180 respectively. Orders can be placed with Chantel Matheus; telephone 021 874 1258 or email wineclub@grahambeckwines.co.za. 

Specialist retail outlets include Norman Goodfellows, Makro Woodmead, Caroline’s Fine Wine, Wine Concepts on Kloof Street, Cellars Hohenort, Cape Grace, Mount Nelson, and Parklane Cellars in Pietermaritzburg.

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[1]Classic Wine, February/March 2012, p. 39, ‘The Classic Chenin Blanc Top Ten’.

[2]  The Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report Top Ten 2012, pp. 1 -2.

The Best of The Best

The Editor enjoys a Feast of Shiraz at Hartenberg | The Month June 2012

At the most recent Syrah du Monde competition in France, Hartenberg Estate’s The Stork Shiraz took the honours as the world’s best Shiraz. No wonder the folks at Hartenberg are on top of the world and what better time than now to host their fabulous Feast of Shiraz and Charcuterie, where some of the finest flagship local Syrahs from leading cellars are paired with superb artisanal fare?

Aware that some may read through the pages of this particular mag after the 2nd of June festival date, and unable to report on the festival itself for the purposes of this edition, I sought out Hartenberg’s legendary winemaker, Carl Schultz, to chat about the state of South African Shiraz.

Carl was the top of his graduating class at Elsenberg in the late ‘90s and joined Hartenberg as winemaker in 1994 before being appointed Estate Director a couple of years later. He was invited to join the Cape Winemakers Guild in ’96 and such was his reputation that he was soon asked to serve as the Guild’s
Chairman. It’s a reputation that has continued to grow yet the  widely travelled and extremely knowledgeable, Carl comes across as a humble man who loves wine as much as he does life and who never seems to tire of sharing his passion for all things vinous - particularly Shiraz.

After dealing with my introductory questions about the nature of the 2012 harvest and the likely quality of the resultant wines – both of which Carl is positive about, thanks to the exceptional fruit quality this year, despite the slightly lower-than-average yield – Carl turned his attention to five bottles of Shiraz from a number of producers on show at the Festival. I commented that he hadn’t included anything from Hartenberg (hoping he’d see past my veiled comment and reach for a hidden bottle of The Stork – which he didn’t) and asked about the wisdom of hosting a festival in which ‘the competition’ was given a chance to compete for Hartenberg’s client-base.

Carl’s forthright answer says a lot about his belief in the quality of the Estate’s offering and that of the better Shiraz producers in the country – he’s proud of South African Shiraz, believes in its inherent value and acknowledges the massive variety the grape displays once the winemakers’ have done their thing. As South African wines go, both the domestic and international markets have proven that it’s a varietal wine of choice and sales are consistently on the up. Hartenberg’s Shiraz Festival is about celebrating the significance of Shiraz, and Carl is particularly happy to be in the kind of position that allows him to show off the best of the best, and not just the Estate. Adding Charcuterie and some artisanal fare to the mix turns it into a true festival and a day of celebration for visiting families, the Estate staff and Carl himself.

Tasting through the five Shiraz wines on offer it was immediately evident that Carl’s intimate knowledge of the products of a large number of producers has allowed him to fully refine and carefully justify his own approach to producing Hartenberg’s offering. Yet he does this without ever doing anything less than comfortably highlighting the best aspects of ‘the competition’. Descriptors such as fruit-driven; savoury; elegant; almost austere; French Oak; American Oak; longevity; bright; Forest-floor and caramel all made their way into my notebook – though not all for the same wine! Shiraz truly offers something for everyone and I found myself easily matching each wine to a different occasion and would happily have bought a bottle of each had they been on offer.

I said as much and got a naughty grin from Carl, “See you on the second then!” he beamed before we raised our glasses again in salute of the success of Shiraz.

Visit www.hartenbergestate.com for more on the Bottelary estate or see our What’s On? Pages for more on the Hartenberg Shiraz and Charcuterie Festival.

Looking Good Together

Norman McFarlane tastes the alchemy of Andrea Freeborough | The Month June 2012

blend [blεnd]
vb
1. to mix or mingle (components) together thoroughly
2. (tr) to mix (different grades or varieties of tea, whisky, tobacco, etc.) to produce a particular flavour, consistency, etc.
3. (intr) to look good together; harmonize
4. (intr) (esp of colours) to shade imperceptibly into each other
n
1. a mixture or type produced by blending
2. the act of blending

What’s missing in the above set of definitions is the word ‘wine’, and in particular, in the following definition: 2. (tr) to mix (different grades or varieties of tea, whisky, tobacco, etc.) to produce a particular flavour, consistency, etc.

Platter’s South African Wines 2012 on the other hand, gives the following definition: Blend A wine made
from two or more different grape varieties, vintages, vineyards, or containers. And it is in that last part – “vineyards, or containers” - that lies the reason so many apparently single varietal wines are so very good. Because whilst they might be single varietal wines, they are at the same time, blends, and to be precise, intra-varietal blends.

A fascinating tasting in the Die Bergkelder cellar deep in the Papegaaiberg overlooking Stellenbosch, where Andrea Freeborough practices her alchemy to produce Fleur du Cap wines, highlighted just how important the art of blending is, in crafting a fine single varietal wine.

The Fleur du Cap Unfiltered range includes a Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, each of which is constructed, not from wine from a single vineyard, or a single estate, or for that matter a single ward, district or region, but from up to four different wines of the same variety, from multiple districts, regions or wards. We tasted our way through twelve wines in total, some or all of which will find their way into the Fleur du Cap Unfiltered range.

Take for example, the soon to be released Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Sauvignon Blanc. Andrea and her winemaking team considered four different components from Elgin, Stellenbosch, Lutzville and Cape Agulhas. Each brings a particular set of characteristics - aromas, flavours, minerality, acidity – that are deemed to be necessary to produce a balanced final wine, that satisfies a set of carefully defined stylistic criteria. During the tasting, the subject of Sauvignon Blanc style came up for discussion. Would the crisp, fresh, green style redolent of green pepper and asparagus perpetuate, or was the market shifting towards a more sumptuous tropical fruit style? After much discussion it emerged that Fleur du Cap at least would continue to pursue the greener, fresher style, until its market, both local and overseas, suggests that a stylistic shift is necessary.

But where do these different characteristics come from? Why does Stellenbosch produce Sauvignon Blancs that exude tropical fruit notes like gooseberries, melons, guavas and passion fruit, while grapes from Darling are all about grassy, green pepper and asparagus? In a word, terroir. Okay, terroir is no simple word. In wine terms, it is possibly one of the most debated and the most contentious,  but irrespective of what your understanding of the word may be, most everybody would agree that climate (and weather) is the single most significant variable, arguably followed by soil.

Listening to viticulturalist Bennie Liebenberg describing each of the four locations where these Sauvignon Blancs grow, and why they present the characteristics that they do, puts the role of terroir into perspective.

But is it all about variables over which we have no control? Disregarding for a moment the long term consequences of human activity manifesting itself in shifting global weather patterns, there isn’t terribly much that one can do in the short-term to influence climate and weather. By like token, the soil that you have, is the soil that you have. To a lesser extent, the vines you have, oriented to the passage of the sun, and planted and trellised as they are, are what they are. Ripping out vineyards and replanting them is a costly and long-term business, not lightly undertaken.

At a micro level, giving or withholding water via irrigation, can and does influence how grapes develop, but what can be achieved is limited. If the vineyard is dryland, you’re deprived of this tool.

Which leaves canopy management and all of the attendant viticultural practices, to manipulate how much fruit each vine produces, and to a greater or lesser extent, berry size, sugar level and flavour profile. Turning once more to Sauvignon Blanc as an example, the popular green aromas and flavours are dependent on the level of Methoxypyrezene in the grapes, which is controlled by the amount of light and heat the berries are exposed to.  Canopy management is therefore critical in Methoxypyrezene control, which must be balanced against the need to avoid the berries getting sunburnt. It’s a complex, finicky business.

“My philosophy on good wine growing is pretty simple: Find a balance in the vineyards that are situated on excellent terroir and ensure proper vineyard management by controlling the crop through proper pruning techniques, canopy management and irrigation. This is the basis of a good harvest of quality grapes needed for the making of our wines,” reckons viticulturist Bennie. But listening to him talk about the lengths he goes to in the vineyards of the 300-odd producers from whom Fleur du Cap buys grapes, it becomes evident that Andrea and her winemaking team rely on Bennie to deliver the precise components they need to craft each of the Fleur du Cap unfiltered range.

The blending decisions had largely been made when we tasted the wines with Andrea and Bennie, with final blending planned for the following week. How they are likely to turn out was suggested by the current vintages which we drank over lunch after the formal tasting.  Uniformly impressive (as yet unreleased) 2011 Semillon, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Merlot and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon suggest that winedrinkers will be beating a path to their local wine retailers to lay in a stock. In the meantime, enjoy the current vintages.

All Fired Up!

Jill Peper heads to Durbanville to experience an explosion of flavours at Ke-Monate

For over 300 years, the signal gun on Hooggelegen Farm has been sounding out across the Durbanville valley.  It was originally part of a signal chain installed by the Dutch East India Company to call the Burgher Militia to defend the Cape. 

Today it stands guard proudly over the entrance to Ke-Monate, the Boutique Wine Cellar and Restaurant on the farm which is situated at the end of Hooggelegen Road, off  the Visserhok Road/M48, just outside Durbanville. 
Wouter de Wit, the fourth generation owner of Hooggelegen, enjoys restoring old cannons, and many of these can be seen lining the restaurant car park.

‘Ke-Monate’ means ‘That’s nice!’, in Sotho and the name was given to the establishment by Ryk’s Sotho-speaking wife, Elmi, who grew up in the Free State.

Morkel Jacobus (MJ) de Wit and his wife Estani are the fifth generation of the de Wit family to run this
historic, scenic farm.  Having opened their doors to the public in October 2010, they converted an old farm house into what is now the charming restaurant, last year. Situated alongside an active water spring, the venue enjoys a panoramic view across the farmlands towards Durbanville. 

 “We wanted to create a warm friendly atmosphere in which to enjoy the boutique wines of the farm (Signal Gun Wines) and the wines from the other Boutique Wine Estates in Durbanville”, explained MJ. “It was also important to us to offer a venue where relaxed, informal food could be served which is also good value for money,” Estani added.

They have succeeded in creating a place where friends and families can share a meal together, where sundowners can be enjoyed on the stoep at the end of a busy day, and where special events can be celebrated.

The interesting menu of tapas, wraps and platters, together with daily specials, offers something for everyone.  On Wednesday evenings the restaurant adopts an Italian theme and cuisine and Chris Swanepoel adds a layer of authenticity as he entertains with contemporary Italian music.  On Thursday evenings the theme is Mexican, and on Friday evenings between 4pm and 7pm they offer something they refer to as “Wine-ing Down” time, as Rupert Mellor entertains into the evening.

On the 25th and 26th May, ‘Ke-Monate’ presents their  Art and Shiraz Celebration evenings at which the work of local artists is to be displayed, a communal meal will be shared, and Chris Swanepoel’s music will entertain.

Although Hooggelegen is one of the oldest family-owned wine farms in Durbanville, it was only in recent years that they started experimenting with producing their own estate wines.  Their Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc have done them proud.  These are bottled under the “Signal Gun” label.

In the next couple of months they will be adding a Rosé and a lightly wooded Chardonnay to their collection, and a Merlot is on the cards for next year.

Wine tasting takes place on Fridays and Saturdays in the Tasting Cellar, where R20 buys you an opportunity to sample the two Signal Gun wines and three of the Durbanville boutique wines.

They also host a Wine and Dinner Club on the 3rd Tuesday of every month which gives guests a chance to learn about different local and international wines, under the guidance and instruction of Cape Wine Master Charl van Teijlingen, the winemaker of Maison de Teiger. 

On the first Saturday of the month, the signal gun is fired at noon, as a reminder to all within earshot, that they are open and cooking up an explosion of flavours and good times.  Listen out for it, or better still, go along and join them for a meal!


Ke-Monate is pleased to offer readers of The Month 10% off their restaurant bill, valid from Tuesday morning until Friday lunchtime, for the month of May, on presentation of this article - No photocopies please! Booking is recommended.

Ke-Monate can be contacted at 021 976 7343 for enquiries and bookings.  They are open Tuesday – Saturday 9h00 – 22h00 and Sunday 9h00 – 16h00.

For other interesting places to explore, visit www.capecountrycalls.co.za.

LOST IN LAYERS

Johan Delport, Cellar Manager at Waverly Hills, chooses Vrede en Lust Boet Erasmus 2009 as our Wine of The Month

The Vrede en Lust Estate, outside Paarl, is the perfect place to visit over a weekend. The impressive and well-maintained historical buildings, the layout of the gardens and the attractive interior finishes all make it worth the visit – and then there are all the delightful wines... This Bordeaux blend is named after the grandfather of the current owners, the Buys family. My first experience of the same Boet Erasmus was as a young boy watching the Springboks play the British Lions from a seat on the Boet Erasmus Stadium in Port Elizabeth in 1980 with
my father, and getting lost in the rain. It is so good to find oom Boet again!

This wine, under screwcap, has everything you would expect of a top class Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. It has layers of ripe black and red fruits with balanced oak complementing it all the way through. The palate confirms the complexity and stays long enough for you to appreciate its careful crafting.

It sells at R150.00 per bottle and is certainly worth the purchase of at least a few.

Divide and Rule!

Dave Rundle takes a long-term view of companies that pay dividends

Market volatility is again on the increase as Sovereign Debt issues resurface and although we have seen this movie before, I think we will continue to see re-runs for a while yet. Unfortunately, making money in this low interest rate environment requires some risk taking.

I went to a very interesting presentation the other day by the offshore manager of an Equity Income Fund. The core of his presentation was that shares paying dividends have tended to be good defence plays, especially in times of volatility.  This is because dividends offer an income stream that may be attractive relative to other options - such as fixed income rates. It is a fact that companies who pay dividends typically have better business models, stronger balance sheets and a higher degree of confidence in their secular growth capabilities. And research shows that in a bear market stocks that pay dividends have gone down, on average, about half as much as those that do not.

Earnings reports are also showing that companies are in good shape with decent cash flows and recently we have seen companies returning capital to shareholders through both dividends and buy-back programs. Spare cash has been used to lower debt levels and companies have become much leaner and more efficient than in the past – a trend I believe will continue.

Although dividend payout is a function of earnings growth, the strength of the balance sheet and the current payout level are two other important factors. Most managers seeing moderating growth in earnings are finding balance sheets that are cash rich and stronger than ever. But investors must also be wary of buying companies with the highest dividend yield. They could be paying out an unsustainably high level of earnings as dividends, or it can indicate the company has little prospect for future growth. Dividend yield alone is no indicator of dividend health, and is why extensive fundamental research is the best way to approach equity markets.

According to the presentation, dividend yield and dividend growth have accounted for over 90% of long-term returns so clearly dividends matter. But if your investment horizon is less than two years, rather stay in cash.


This article is solely intended to provide you with objective information about financial products and services and is not intended to constitute a recommendation, guidance or proposal with regard to the suitability of any product in respect of any financial need you may have.

Dave Rundle 083 658 8055
Rundle Management Services

Play Together, Stay Together

5 mins with Deeper Love’s Tarryn Warren

We, the editing team, here at The Month, think we have our reader’s tastes and needs licked and, up to now, our opinion that the sex business is geared towards the impulse buyer - all junk food and box wine – has kept us away from throwing this fascinating topic into the mix.

Does that leave the discerning buyer, who is not generally swayed by the instant gratification of ‘cheap and nasty’ products, dare we say, unsatisfied? Someone who understands this dilemma is Tarryn Warren, and her brainchild business, Deeper Love. With Deeper Love, Tarryn aims to kick the ‘cheap and nasty’ into touch and bring high-quality products to the bedroom of the kind of ‘fine-diner’ who enjoys reading The Month. 

Down-to-earth, warm and straight-talking, Tarryn has a ‘Dr Eve comfortableness’ in talking about a subject that has many of us intrigued, yet squirming a little, so we started with a safe question: is the success of her business just further proof that men are becoming redundant?

Tarryn Warren: (laughs) Of course not! In fact many of our intimate products are for couples who want to add some spice into their relationships or, if all else fails, just inject a little laughter! We very much encourage our clients to explore and have fun but also warn that ‘intimate products’ are also known as sex toys
because they are just that – toys. They are not going to replace the warmth of a partner, or the intimacy “he” can provide!

The Month: One is immediately struck by how little your products look like sex toys in, let’s say, the ‘traditional’ sense. They are clearly beautifully designed, stylish, elegant, and could almost pass as ornaments or jewellery. Is this form over function?

TW: Not at all! As you are probably well aware, women don’t achieve orgasm as easily as men, so many intimate products aim to address this. A woman’s ability to have an orgasm can greatly improve her quality of life and heightened states of arousal have many positive results for our health and longevity. Their design allows our ‘personal massagers’ to nestle elegantly in the curves of her hand and deliver precise control through many modes of stimulation. Most are highly effective and versatile and are made in Sweden from high quality, smooth, body-safe FDA-approved silicone.
TM: Body-safe? Is that an issue?

TW: It certainly is. Due to various health and safety reasons, and because the sex toy industry is largely unregulated (worldwide), the cheap and nasty ‘made only for novelty purposes’ products don’t even claim to be safe. Deeper Love is the only intimate product retailer in SA that stocks only safe, non-toxic products.

TM: Well that’s reassuring, but I’m still not convinced men have a future…

TW: Ah, well this is where it gets interesting. The latest ‘personal massager’ has a wireless remote so that he can control the vibration speed and intensity of the massager simply by tilting, shaking or sweeping it through different movements. It also contains a discreet motor that allows him to feel what his partner is experiencing in the palm of his hand. Wonderfully quiet, waterproof and rechargeable and again with a beautifully smooth silicone design, the remote has a range of up to twelve metres.
TM: (thinks – so whilst I’m watching the game... but says) That sounds like fun! Let’s say, hypothetically of course, that someone wanted to experiment with one of these products. How would they go about buying one?

TW: Online shopping at Deeper Love is safe, discreet and informative and carries many massage oils, candles, lubricants and body butters as well as our intimate products. Ladies often prefer our popular ‘Naughtywares’ parties which we are happy to host in their own homes, removing many of the social stigmas attached to the purchasing of these products. We understand this facet of the business but believe honestly that couples that play together, stay together so we encourage everyone to give it a go!

TM: Thanks Tarryn, I may just give you  buzz later.

Contact Tarryn on 082 572 2463 or tarryn@deeperlove.co.za. Shop online at www.deeperlove.co.za

GRIP IT AND RIP IT!

SwingFit’s Pierre van Vuuren differentiates between the ‘weak’ and the ‘strong’ grip

This month we’re back on the range with PGA Professional and Pearl Valley-based SwingFit coach, Pierre van Vuuren, and we’re discussing how the grip influences the shot we hit.

“Our grip plays a very important role in how we swing the club” says Pierre. “It is the only part of our body that connects us to the club (and ultimately the ball) so it has to be 100% right. Having a bad grip will negatively influence the outcome of the shot we hit and lead to inconsistency.” 

We first look at the two most popular grips – the Interlocking (where you interlock the pinkie of your right hand into the first finger of your left) and the ‘overlap’ where the pinkie just overlaps. The 10 finger – or baseball grip – is not recommended because the hands don’t get to work together well.

The grip can also be considered either ‘weak’ or ‘strong’. “Having a weak grip is where the left thumb favours left side of the shaft and the ‘V’ formed between your thumb and first finger of the right hand points to the left shoulder. The clubface lies open at the top of the swing and the result is a fade that has the wrong type of spin
and lacks distance.” Clearly a ‘no go’ set up.

A strong grip is when we have our left hand favouring the right side of the grip. “This shuts the club face at the top of the backswing and, although might result in more distance, can flip the club over and hook the ball” says Pierre.

A neutral grip, where we can see about two knuckles of the left hand, is ideal. “The club sits more into the fingers, the ‘V’ points to the right shoulder, not the left, and the result is a better, more consistent, golf shot” says Pierre, who proves his point by hitting one straight down the middle.

Fashionably Yours

Annamé Lotz draws inspiration from her changing surroundings

As the days grow shorter and night sets in earlier, sunsets become richer and the trees change their colours from bright green to the warmer shades of red, brown and yellow.  Just like Nature, we too should take this opportunity to shed our summer colours and dress ourselves in warmer, more comfortable layers.

Autumn is such a fun time to play around with layers and different textures.  The weather is still very forgiving; you don’t need to cover up completely with a coat and scarf.  There’s a lot of opportunity to combine playful layers and experiment with textures and shades.  This allows you to look good while we’re in this limbo of seasons, where we’re likely to have winter and summer both in one day!

Draw inspiration from your changing surroundings: play with shades of brown, red and gold to mimic the trees and shades of grey to tune in with darkening skies.

A sequined soft pink top, layered with a chunky knit cardigan looks very ladylike tucked into a grey flared skirt.  Be sure to tuck it in! This will accentuate your waist that could otherwise so easily get lost in a chunky knit cardi. and add some pretty accessories to make it your own.

Be a little more daring and try this season’s hottest item: the faux fur waistcoat.  It adds instant character and depth to your outfit.  Take it a step further and combine it with something out of the ordinary: an interesting top perhaps? We’ve done just that, choosing a knitted, almost metallic, rust-coloured one that you can pair it with your best-fitting tights or dark wash jeans and tuck them into a pair of brown boots.  Now add a little glamour with bold brushed gold accessories; the contrasting textures and warm colours make for a pretty picture with lots of interesting detail to add value.

Take on the cold and wet weather by wearing the same tights with a burgundy shirt and a grey coat, preferably with a hood.  Give this look some extra kick and go get those Hunter boots you’ve been dreaming about!  A dark olive pair would go beautifully with this outfit’s grey, burgundy and black palette, once again mimicking our changing surroundings.

So, before winter forces us all to cover up completely, have a little fun with layering different shades and textures, adding a spot of shimmer here and there. 

This Wasn’t the Plan!

The Publisher looks  at Professor Tim Noakes’ controversial ‘new’ eating plan

Professor Tim Noakes is not getting any younger. But, at 62, he’s getting lighter and running faster than at any point in his last 20 years. He puts this down to eliminating sugar, bread, cereals, rice, pasta and other refined carbohydrates in his diet and replacing them with a high-fat and high-protein diet of meat, fish, eggs, vegetables, nuts and dairy produce. We thought it worth taking a closer look at the nutritional claims of South Africa’s pre-eminent sports scientist to understand why this is.  

First up, the conventional wisdom suggests that high blood pressure, obesity and adult-onset diseases like heart disease are best avoided simply by remaining physically active into your ‘mature’ years and avoiding excessive weight gain by eating a balanced diet. For those that succumb to weight gain, the calorie-restricted diet is the only option – the ‘energy in, energy out’ equation is undoubtedly fact. If you eat more calories than you burn you’ll gain weight, so to lose weight you need to eat less and exercise more. It’s simple.

Except, in practice, it doesn’t work, says Noakes. The moment we either eat less or exercise more, our appetite is stimulated – our mind controls this. So we eat until we are satisfied and return to ‘energy balance’. In fact, most overweight or obese people are actually in (or close to) energy balance, he believes.

What Noakes has highlighted is that, possibly because in large quantities it is toxic to humans, protein is a potent appetite suppressant. In contrast, carbohydrates (especially those that are rapidly assimilated like sugar) may be addictive - which drives overconsumption of all foodstuffs.


So a low carbohydrate, high protein, high fat diet works because you reach satiety at lower levels of calorie intake and you lose weight comfortably by taking yourself out of energy balance and that, without hunger. He tried it himself and it worked. So why aren’t we made more aware of this? His suspicion is that “some very large industries, including the soft-drink, sugar and confectionery industries – all of which produce sugar-based products of no nutritional value - and those pharmaceutical companies that produce drugs to treat the medical consequences of this toxic foodstuff, do not wish us to know this.”
Upon investigation he found no empirical evidence that fat makes you fat or that the amount of saturated fat in your diet is even related to the incidence of heart disease at all - and notes that the French have one of the highest intakes of saturated fat among the developed nations and one of the lowest incidences of heart disease. What is unambiguous is this, however; the ten-fold increase in sugar intake during the 20th century has been matched by an equally dramatic rise in the incidence of obesity and diabetes. “The best evidence at present is that a high intake of omega 6 polyunsaturated fats found in vegetable oils and processed foods together with a low intake of omega 3 fats present in fish oils and grass-fed animals, is the toxic combination of fats that causes heart disease,” says Noakes.

Notwithstanding, US dietary guidelines continue to recommend a ‘balanced’ diet of six to eleven servings of refined carbohydrate a day (bread, cereals, rice and pasta) and endorse that sugar can safely provide up to 15% of the daily calories in a healthy diet. Unsurprisingly, perhaps, first-world dietetic associations are largely funded by those companies “who pro-actively protect their profits by ensuring that the public remains misinformed” – the global soft-drinks and refined carbohydrate producers.

If sugar is, in fact, a highly addictive substance, three things are for sure. Firstly, the global use of sugar will undoubtedly continue to rise – and with it the incidence of diabetes and the single biggest medical problem in the US, obesity. Secondly, the pharmaceutical companies will continue to profit from producing drugs to counter this entirely preventable scenario. And lastly, there is a vested interest in “our not having freedom of access to all the evidence of the toxic effects of dietary sugar” as Noakes so succinctly puts it, since “what we believe about nutrition is engineered by powerful forces,” so not much is likely to change.

History shows the Professor has an unbridled willingness to attack the conventional wisdom and, with it, the knack of being proven right in the end. Is history about to repeat itself?

Ed’s Last Writes

The Editor on Christians, demons and nudity

Google ‘tolerance’ and you’ll ten-to-one make your first stop at Dictionary.com where the noun is defined (in part) as: “a fair, objective, and permissive attitude toward those whose opinions, practices, race, religion, nationality, etc., differ from one's own”.

I like the idea of tolerance; having said that, I’ll admit that the adjective ‘tolerant’ sits a little less comfortably with me. In my home, for example, my four-year-old knows that not all behaviour will be tolerated and that’s particularly true of some of the behaviour he sees accepted in the homes of others. I think of ‘tolerance’ as ‘understanding’ and ‘tolerate’ as ‘accept’. I’ve tried to explain to him that understanding and acceptance are quite different, and I console myself that he’ll grow up one day to be both open-minded and principled; but he’s four, so we have a way to go yet.

Having recently concluded a lengthy explanation to him that TV is not a dessert to be enjoyed as the last course to Sunday dinner, with


the words “Do you understand?”, I couldn’t help but dissolve when he looked at me intently and replied “No; but I accept.”

I wondered what he would make of the following mail I received from a friend just a day before:

Dear Friends
 
Members of the Shofar Church, in their ignorance of the meaning behind Dylan Lewis' work, are moving to have his work removed from Stellenbosch, viewing it as Satanic. 

Dylan Lewis' work is in no way affiliated with a religious message.
Please take a moment to sign the petition, and support artistic freedom.
http://bit.ly/HYAJgN

Please feel free to forward this email to anyone you feel would support freedom of artistic expression.

Regards

Not being a member of either the community of Stellenbosch or Shofar, I followed up on the  mail and came across a number of letters in Die Burger that relate to the petition to "save" Lewis’ works and the gist of the petition of the students who have taken offence at two of his statues on campus. My understanding is that the issue of exposed male genitalia is possibly of more concern than any demonic connotations.

The wording of the "save" Lewis’ works petition does not indicate that only two works are in question, nor does it properly explain why some people have taken offence and it also doesn't indicate that the students have simply called for the works to be placed in a museum, as opposed to having them "removed from Stellenbosch" as the forwarded mail suggests.

Without seeking to prejudice the intent of the parties involved, and Lewis in particular, it strikes me that from time to time those who would have us tolerate their views, often exercise very little tolerance themselves. I wonder who the police would be asked to remove first, the Lewis statute flaunting its manhood or the editor of The Month, similarly attired? I'm opposed to censorship - so certainly don't want to see Lewis’ works removed from Stellenbosch, but I do understand that some would want to avoid being subjected to a particular spectacle and that they have the right to make their feelings known.

For the record, I'll sign neither petition, and I’ll be sure to keep my birthday suit well and truly packed away lest the Publisher happen upon this missive as a means to get rid of me cheaply.

It IS a Noun, BUT…

Use of the word ‘varietal’ seems to be a love-hate issue in the world of Winos. Say “This Cape Blend contains only a small portion of the Pinotage varietal” and you’re sure to get lynched - but why?

A prolonged stay at the office, a little Googling and a fair number of drained glasses yielded the following:

varietal
adj. Of, indicating, or characterizing a variety, especially a biological variety.
n. A wine made principally from one variety of grape and carrying the name of that grape.

So The Month concludes: Use ‘varietal’ as an adjective to modify a noun; if you must use it as a noun, simply use it to refer to a wine bearing the name of the principal grape from which it is made and if you’re in any way unsure, keep the wine glass to your lips.

Keeping it Bottled Up

The Vineyard Connection team introduces us to a number of ‘personalities’ in a bottle

A word that is often thrown around in wine circles is ‘terroir’ – which is best summarised as meaning a ‘sense of place’. The idea is that wines from specific vineyards will display unique topographical characteristics… much as people from Cape Town or Johannesburg often define a particular stereotype!

But the character of a place is not just limited to its slopes, soils and climate. There are human and historical elements too that make the Winelands and its wines special  and this month we’ll consider two labels with strong ties to Stellenbosch’s yesteryear, Muratie and Teddy Hall.

With Muratie's deep roots in our history, their wines tell a love story which still captivates the imagination over 300 years later. Ansela was born in the notorious slave quarters of the Cape's Castle. She fell in love with Laurens Campher, a German soldier in the service of the Dutch East Indian Company. Laurens was granted a farm in 1685 by Cape Governor, Wilhelm Adriaan van der Stel, at the foot of the Simonsberg. The love affair between slave and landowner lasted 14 years, and Laurens would regularly undertake the three-day journey to the Cape to visit Ansela. Their dreams of being together were finally realised when Ansela was freed in 1699 and Laurens could take her and their three children to their new home at Muratie. The oak trees Ansela planted as a blessing to their marriage still stand on the property today.

1. Muratie “Ansela van de Caab” Red Blend 2009, R200
This Bordeaux blend from an excellent vintage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with concentrated fruit and cigar box on the nose. The flavours and tannins are beautifully balanced with a lingering and elegant finish.

2. Muratie “Laurens Campher” White Blend 2011, R105
A blend of Chenin Blanc with Verdelho, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine was fermented with wild yeast and all, bar the Sauvignon Blanc, were barrel fermented. The blend was then matured in barrel for six months and the result is a wine with flavours that range from honeysuckle to pineapple. A good acidity and the off-dry finish make this wine an excellent match with spicy food.

Teddy Hall is a contemporary personality synonymous with Stellenbosch, who meticulously searches for great grapes within the Stellenbosch district from which to make his wines. His results are labelled under names of eccentric and dubious characters of Stellenbosch’s past; each with an equally compelling story.

One of his wines tells of Dr Jan Cats, who had his medical practice in the centre of Stellenbosch. The fact that the local mortuary was just across the road was cause for notoriety – especially as one of the window designs allowed casualties to be easily transferred on stretchers in the dead of night (so to speak).

Another mysterious figure of Stellenbosch is the first Dutch Reformed pastor, Hercùles van Loon. He lived in the oldest house in Stellenbosch and also had a farm in the Klapmuts vicinity (in the same ward as The Vineyard Connection today). During one of his trips between domiciles, he mysteriously met his end, reportedly by committing suicide with a pocket knife. No one has yet discovered the reason for his profound and sudden despair…

3. Teddy Hall ‘Dr Jan Cats’ Chenin Blanc Reserve 2010, R131
A benchmark for Chenin Blanc in South Africa by the Chenin King! Made with only free run juice from vineyards planted in 1986, this wine was fermented with wild yeasts and matured in oak and is rich and round with good acidity to compliment and clean the palate. It is bright gold with pineapple, orange blossoms, peach, vanilla and baked apple flavours - just what the doctor ordered!

4. Teddy Hall ‘Hercùles van Loon’ Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2008, R362
An exceptional Cabernet (with a dash of Merlot). A beautiful opaque crimson colour leads to cassis and violets on the nose, with a layered palate of blackberries, chocolate and vanilla. Aged in 100% new French oak, with a good concentration of fruit and complexity, this is one of the current highlights of The Vineyard Connection’s wine team!

Another Wine Festival? Sweet!

Cobie van Oort tells us why we should plan to attend the 8th Winter Wine Festival | The Month May 2012

With the kind of cold weather we’re sure to experience in May, wine lovers will no doubt begin to turn their thoughts to hearty winter dishes paired with rich wines, to be enjoyed beside a roaring fire.  It’s early days yet, but be sure to plan get to the 8th Winter Wine Festival at High Street Shopping Village in Durbanville from the 21st to the 23rd of June.

The festival offers visitors an opportunity to taste a wide range of Ports, brandies, dessert wines, Muscadels, Jerepigos and a selection of red and white wines and a chance to stock up ahead of the coldest part of the year.

Two of the interesting sweeter wines that will be on show at this year’s festival are Perdeberg’s Weisser Riesling - a natural sweet wine which is perfect with cheese or even instead of a dessert,  and Solms-Delta’s ‘Gemoedsrus’ which is a complex, fortified Port-like sweet wine that brings to mind brandy-spiked
Christmas cake!

Elize Walters, the PR and Marketing Manager of Propergation Estates, which presents the Festival, says that “for the first time we are including wines from Chile and Italy as well as creating a market atmosphere with our food exhibitors.  Visitors are encouraged to relax and linger at the festival; and with the regular wine theatre presentations, live music and food courts, we hope they will!”

With nearly 30 wineries and 20 food stalls pulling out all the stops, there’s every reason to linger and to make the High Street Shopping Village home for a few hours. The Durbanville Round Table have been chosen as the beneficiaries of monies raised via the festival, so you’ll have the added benefit of knowing that you’re there for a good cause.

On-site sales are encouraged and storage will be available from where purchases can easily be transferred to the parking areas.

Ticket prices are R80pp if bought on-line and R90pp at the door.  Pensioners’ and groups of more than 10 pay R70pp. Tickets are available at www.ticketbreak.co.za  from 1st of May or at the door during the festival. For more information visit www.winterwinefestival.co.za

Perdeberg Weisser Riesling Natural Sweet, R80 per bottle at the cellar
This low alcohol Riesling is a ‘sticky’ to be sure – with almost 133g of residual sugar! It has a beautiful pale yellow colour with immediately evident whiffs of honeycomb and apricot on the nose and perhaps even a little lime. There’s a fresh acidity to the palate that deals adequately with the sugar, but still allows the wine a sweet finish. Try it with rich cheeses, a sweet pudding or simply on its own!

Solms-Delta Gemoedsrus 2010, R220
This 100% Shiraz, fortified with Shiraz husk spirit, was matured for 15 months in mostly new French oak barrels, to retain the primary fruit aromas. It is a dark wine with hints of almonds on the nose and cocoa on the palate. With a little less than 80g of residual sugar it a decent sweet wine for the weight-conscious, but be warned – at 18.5% alcohol it may skip your hips and go straight for your head!

A Cheyne_Reaction

The Editor enjoys some food and wine at the Holden Manz Franschhoek Kitchen | The Month May 2012

“I made Kate Moss eat” reads part of the Twitter bio of Chef Cheyne Morrisby, the new man in charge of the Franschhoek Kitchen at the Holden Manz wine estate. Anyone prepared to share a claim like that, deserves a little attention.

So it was with pleasure that I accepted an opportunity recently to join Cheyne at the Franschhoek Kitchen to enjoy one of the Holden Manz “Winemakers’ Dinners” and a night’s stay over at the Holden Manz 5-star Country House – lest the winemakers got me to drink the way Cheyne got Kate to eat. The dinners are a relaxed affair and generally see the chef pair four dishes to each of the four wines presented, by four different winemakers, on the night.

The theme of the evening was ‘Shiraz’ and after a little bubbly upon
arrival and some convivial chatter on the restaurant terrace that overlooks a vineyard or two in the direction of the Guest House, we took our seats to put both winemakers and chef to the test.

A 2009 Eagle’s Nest Shiraz was paired with Venison tataki, a grape and onion marmalade and goats cheese. The white pepper, evident on the nose of the Shiraz, and the dark red berry flavours that follow were made all the fresher and cleaner thanks to the venison and, as introductions go, I can’t imagine many being better.

With plates cleared and another round of wines poured, this time the Mullineux Syrah 2010, it was clear that, at our table at least, diners were gearing up for a good time. That three of the four winemakers happened to be our table companions and that the gentleman and his wife opposite me were authentic French wine farm owners from Champagne, certainly helped. Not that any of the other tables seemed lacking in characters!

The Mullineux Syrah 2010 is more smoky black pepper than white, yet exhibits an almost Fynbos-like scent; it’s a seriously attractive wine and was my favourite of the night. For this wine Cheyne produced an Asian mushroom medley with a puff pastry square and deep fried coconut milk. The latter had us tasting, re-tasting and deliberating for long enough to call for a top-up of our wine and conclude that the pairing had resulted in a hung jury.

The main course for the evening was a Rack of Lamb, wasabi cream potatoes and a pomegranate and ginger glaze. Glancing down at the menu I saw that the lamb had been paired with the Holden Manz Shiraz 2008. Looking up I caught the eye of Schalk Opperman, the Holden Manz winemaker. “This is an eighty-rand bottle of wine,” I said rather bluntly, “and you think it’ll carry main better than any of the others that go in the two-hundred-plus category?” Schalk laughed nervously. “I haven’t had the dish that Cheyne’s going to serve, but I trust him,” he responded, still nervously. “And if he’s wrong,” he continued, “I can always say I didn’t make this wine!”

The pairing of the succulent lamb, with all the intense flavours brought to the plate by the rich accompanying miso jus, surprised all at our table. “Pity you can’t take credit for the wine, hey Schalk,” teased one of the other winemakers, as he managed to wangle a top-up. The ripe fruit flavours of the 2008 Holden Manz Shiraz are balanced by strong savoury characteristics and a full, soft mouth feel – it was perfect with the lamb and a bit of kick in the pants for those of us who tend to shop according to price.

A dessert of Blue Cheese Cheesecake with fig tempura and toasted sesame brittle completed the evening’s line-up and was paired with a recently bottled 2009 AA Badenhorst Shiraz/Mourvedre/Grenache/Cinsault. Despite not yet settling fully in the bottle, the wine’s obvious pedigree was already in evidence with a pepper and perfume nose and overt black cherry flavours. The wine’s dry yet flavourful finish made it a perfect partner to the not too-sweet cheesecake.

As those of us who weren’t heading off home across the Winelands lingered to enjoy coffee and the tranquillity of the evening outside, I thought back to my high school physics lessons involving chain reactions. Funny that we were never taught that there are some chain reactions that simply lead to smiles. 

The next Winemakers’ Dinner takes place on Wednesday the 16th of May and features Merlot. See the ad below for contact details.

Holden Manz presently has a special rate on accommodation at their Country House, and from May to the end of July, the Winter Secret package is only R995 per person per night. The picturesque setting just outside Franschhoek, amidst fruit orchards and vines, is secluded enough to offer peace and complete privacy, but not that far removed from everything to leave you feeling isolated.

The Country House features some exquisite art pieces, a beautiful courtyard koi pond, comfortable rooms with private outdoor seating and the best breakfast and service I have experienced in a long time. The attentive staff had me feeling at home from the moment I entered the front door and the additional offering of the adjacent spa, the Franschhoek Kitchen or a picnic on the banks of the Franschhoek River close by, make this a must-do for anyone intent on experiencing the best that the Winelands has to offer.

Phone 021 876 2738 or e-mail collette@holdenmanz.com for bookings.

Writing Room with a View

With harvesting over, it’s time for books and passion, writes Catriona Ross | The Month May 2012

Every novelist needs a place. A literary hangout. A corner of the world conducive to free-range thought and fresh prose. For some, this might mean a laptop in a garage, away from the sounds of Top Gear and kids squabbling. However, if, like me, you’d prefer something a little more like Pemberley, Mr Darcy’s estate in Pride and Prejudice, consider retreating to the Winelands.

An ex-city journalist married to a tango-dancing farmer, I write in a sweet spot between Paarl, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, a neighbourhood heaving with all the ingredients of a novel.

We have Characters, from sabre-wielding winemakers and Méthode Cap Classique pioneers, to celebrity
chefs like Reuben and Margot Janse, and a diamond mogul set high on a hill. 

We have Conflict. Yeah, I also thought ‘harvest time’ sounded cool and rustic – until I realised it lasted seven months and is the annual Olympics of relationship endurance.

We have Heroes. Like me, when Tango Farmer phoned in the middle of the night to say, ‘Ag sorry, man, the motorbike’s run out of petrol’. I had to bundle the baby into the bakkie and rescue him from a neighbouring wine estate, where he was checking pumps by moonlight. 

We have Romance. Despite the fact that Tango Farmer spent Valentine’s Day pumping water from the Berg River into his parched dam, we did celebrate harvest’s end at the Wellington oesfees, lazing under oak trees and savouring The Stone Kitchen’s wild boar burgers with sage and apple, while Die Heuwels Fantasties crooned. Later, while dancing tango at Slaley wine estate, we managed to fall in love again.

We have Drama. From farm attacks to raging mountain fires every summer to porcupines raiding the herb garden: take your pick.
We have Villains, such as the nonchalant Namibian syndicate who swept through the neighbourhood a few months ago, cutting holes in fences and whistling while they cleaned out farmhouses of computers and flat-screen TVs.

We have Plot, always thickening. Some say they saw a ghost bidder driving up prices at the auction of a Stellenbosch wine estate. And according to neuro-psychologist Mark Solms, the ghost of Tango Farmer’s great-great grandfather walks the garden at Solms-Delta, and flicks the light switches in his psychoanalyst wife’s consulting room (only after hours, though). 

We have Setting. Jagged mountains, majestic valleys and purple-prose sunsets to make a book editor blush. You’ll have to tone everything down if you’re writing literary fiction.

We have Inspiration. Novelists need lavish inner resources to draw upon, ideally spending two hours a week filling the ‘inner well’, says Julia Cameron, creativity expert and author of The Artist’s Way. Catch an art movie and a glass of local wine at Le Quartier Français’s plush mini cinema, read French poetry in a Franschhoek chocolate shop, and partake of our seasonal pleasures. Autumn on the farm means black-skinned figs with opulent pink flesh, and porcini mushrooms blooming in the pine forest behind our house, their sexy, rich flavour best enjoyed in risottos or simmered in cream with tagliatelle, fresh herbs and parmesan.

Winter is drawing in, and I can almost hear the rustling of pages, the soft crack of book spines from the Franschhoek Literary Festival. It’s time to sip Terra del Capo Sangiovese beside a fire and catch up on reading, flirting, doodling, journaling. Hey, you might end up writing a book, or initiating some other passionate activity. As Agatha Christie remarked, ‘I don’t think necessity is the mother of invention. Invention, in my opinion, arises directly from idleness, possibly also from laziness.’ So if you can’t go five minutes without checking your Blackberry, unplug from daily life and find your true place in the Winelands.

A Place To Hide

The Editor discovers The Jackal and Hide on Kloof Street | The Month May 2012

Regular readers of The Month will know how passionate I am about the culinary offering of Cape Town and the surrounding Winelands. I can’t claim to be particularly knowledgeable about food or foodie folk, but I do know what I’m prepared to pay for and will happily cover the 150-odd kilometre return-trip from my home in Franschhoek to potter* about the City Centre or wind my way to The Restaurant at Waterkloof, via Hermanus. So I’m always excited to meet like-minded people such as Linda Brash, who sent me some news about a relatively new Cape Town based offering, The Jackal and Hide.

Situated on that ‘stretch of heaven’ to those looking for a diverse offering of trendy places to eat, Kloof Street, the attractive restaurant has a beautiful view of Table Mountain and a menu conceptualised by
Octavio Gamo, of El Bulli fame.

Here’s the gist of what Linda shared with me: The Jackal and Hide, which opened to the public late December last year, is the result of the thoughts and efforts of Gavin Cohen and Federico Scarpecci.

Cohen is an inspirational designer and has used his artistic talents to create a beautiful dining space, which he describes as “Victorian with a contemporary touch”. Previously an old, distressed building, Cohen effected the transformation by “[bringing] in slick finishes and different textures to create a warm, relaxed space in which to enjoy a meal with friends.”

Scarpecci was previously associated with the Bang Bang Club and is more focused on the operations side of things, “I wanted to give Cape Town a brand new venue to enjoy excellent food with a view. For me, service is really important and we strive to deliver quality food and service – each and every time - in the most beautiful city in the world!”

Both men are passionate foodies and the menu is evidence of this. Given that it displays the influence of Gamo, you’ll have guessed that it isn’t going to be cheap, but I’d happily peg it as a good-value-for-money option. Starters range from R45 for an Asparagus in Orange Tempura dish to R120 for Fois Gras served with red wine and toasted breads (be warned though that the constantly changing nature of the menu means that not all dishes are available all the time). Mains include kingklip, lamb or chicken dishes at R70-odd and head towards R135 for the deconstructed Salmon Fish Cake and sour pepper sauce. Desserts range from 35 to 50 bucks, and the Mango Ganache with mint foam at the bottom end of that scale is good enough to want to buy twice! And in that vein I notice that their current special runs on a Monday, when you can pick up two main meals for just R120. Obviously booking on a Monday is essential.

Of particular interest to me, is the wine list which includes many wines chosen specifically to complement the menu and the cosy bar area, called The Hide, which has a large selection of spirits.  If you’re fond of cocktails, the Kloof Street Cooler is certainly worth a try – but best perhaps on one of the sunnier winter’s days we’re sure to experience in the months ahead. On that note the outside terrace is the place to be seen and offers the most spectacular view of Table Mountain and is the perfect place to soak up the sun.

Thanks to its location, the excellent menu and the highly-rated service, The Jackal and Hide has become an increasingly popular spot and a couple of calls to Cape Town locals made it clear that calling ahead is advisable – especially as the venue can be hired out exclusively to host private functions.

The Month and The Jackal and Hide have two R500 meal vouchers up for grabs.  All you need to do is go to TheMonthMagazine page on Facebook and post “Pick me for a meal at The Jackal & Hide!” to be in line to win.  The competition closes 15 May 2012. T&C apply*

The Jackal & Hide is open Monday to Saturday from 3pm till late, 108 Kloof Street, Gardens, 021 4241020.

*’potter’ is generally the euphemism I use when trying not to let on that I am lost…

When Gold is Just Not Enough

Izak Smit gives us a picture of the SAWi methodology

“With the proliferation of wine competitions and the plethora of awards and medals  that adorn wine bottles these days, Ed, how does the ‘average’ consumer know what constitutes a ‘good’ wine?” the Publisher asked me recently. Resisting the temptation to point out to him that ‘average’ is probably the kind of compliment I’d avoid when considering his wine knowledge, I did concede that the question is one I often grapple with.

I called Izak Smit, the project director of the South African Wine Index for a little advice. Izak identified the general merits of the Publishers question some years back and set about developing a method to quantify the various awards given to wines and to determine as objective a rating of the quality of a wine, over time, as possible.

After a lengthy correspondence, that left the Publisher confused and the Editor in search of a drink, we managed to hone it down to one paragraph and a very useful picture. We hope you get it.

At present, the index considers and aggregates all credible and blind-tasted wine scores and awards given to a wine, over a period of three years, into a single score out of a 100. In due course the single score will be represented as a split score to further categorise wines according to maturation periods and regions of origin.


See www.sawineindex.com for rated wines.   

Tsitsikamma Dreaming

The secret diary of an Otter Trailer, aged 14¾ | The Month May 2012

As many avid The Month readers will be aware, the Otter Trail is a hike along the pristine Garden Route coast that stretches from the Storms River Mouth to the east and winds back west to Nature's Valley.  Named after the Cape Clawless Otter which occurs in this region, the impression is of a soft, fluffy, cuddly trail over 26km as the crow flies. In reality, it is a scary and, in parts, dangerous little beast whose sharp teeth will catch out the careless, or unbalanced, hiker. Widely regarded as one of the finest in the world, the five day, four night hike traverses an unrivalled scenic landscape, largely hugging the rocky shoreline daily and climbing steeply and then descending to the beach or a river crossing where the overnight huts are located. The route is located entirely within the Tsitsikamma National Park, which protects an 80km strip of coastal mountains, forest and beaches. Here’s how a youngster may experience it.


Was supposed to arrive at 2pm but Dad didn’t realise Storms River was 60kms past Plett so he spent the whole drive biting his nails and swearing at the nice lollipop ladies at the four ‘stop and go’ road works between Riversdale and Mossel Bay. And then he rambled on about his fear for Garden Route tourism if we’re supposed to drive everywhere at 60 km/h, so I just played on my phone whilst pretending to read my book. Checked the booking form that says you can’t start the trail after 4pm but thought better of mentioning this.

4.15pm – Struggle to keep up as we finally head off into the forest and down to the coast. Feels like I’m carrying all the heavy stuff. The trail is pretty obvious but Dad keeps stopping to look at the map and points out the different species of fynbos (which all look the same to me) and wild flowers. I’m already getting hungry. Hit the shoreline and turn west. After a bit of rock scrambling, there’s this amazing waterfall where I fancied a swim but apparently it was getting dark – which it wasn’t.

Arrive at the first hut (which is called Ngubu) and meet ‘Ouma and Oupa’ – a really nice couple from PE who have hiked here before. Dad makes an embarrassing joke about thinking we were sharing a hut with the Swedish ladies topless volleyball team - which I ignore. So he starts to cook 2-minute noodles with biltong and a sachet of cool drink powder “because it’s light to carry” whilst our new companions tuck into their steak and wine. Water is brown but sweet to taste. Braai wood is provided so I keep the fire going. The stars are amazing and as I discuss Orion’s belt with Oupa, the wors disappears and Dad blames the monkeys but I think he stole it because he was jealous. The hut has six bunks so I choose the top one and we go to bed early.

Day Two: 7.9 km (± 4 hours)
Dad wakes me up with coffee and rusks at 7am and says we should get going. He sends me ahead with a stick as ‘the leader’ but really he just wants me to clear the spider’s webs. Really tough hiking with the backpacks but, thankfully, mainly in the shade of the forest. We get to an amazing rock called Skilderkrans and take pictures. The sound of the ocean is deafening! A bit further on we look down on a pristine beach called Bloubaai and if I’d had Polaroid glasses I could have seen the fish, I’m sure. The route is marked with yellow Otter prints which is practically the same colour as some of the lichen markings on the rocks and trees so I didn’t always know whether I was going the right way - fortunately there are a number of escape routes on the hike. Hectic climb at end of the day but the most amazing lookout at the top. Dad said the knee-jarring descent made Smuts Track seem like “a walk in the park” but I think he meant the Table Mountain National Park, actually. The Scott huts were really nice by the river mouth and Dad and I went for a swim where the water was crystal clear and warm. More 2-minute noodles for dinner…




Day Three: 7.7 km (± 6 hours)
Thankfully no sign yet of vultures but the bats are circling at dawn as we make coffee and stretch our tired legs - the huts are clean but the mattresses are pretty hard. Early on the hike we pass some graffiti on a rock which said ‘Lisa + Jordan 2.2.12’ which really annoyed Dad who went on about “pristine environments” and “the youth” for about half an hour afterwards. Tough, but not as tough as yesterday and the best bit was crossing first the Elandsbos river where we had to strip down to our onderbroekke and carry everything over. Most of today was in shade, thankfully, and right at the end of the hike there’s an amazing drop down into Oakhurst Hut across the Lottering River. Dad said this had the toilet with the best view in the world – and was there for about an hour enjoying it while I went for a swim in the river mouth. A pod of dolphins were smacking their tails on the water which Oupa said was to attract the fish and we watched the Gannets diving for fish out to sea until the sun went down – a really great feeling! Spotted our first Otter footprints in the lapa next to the hut, they were smaller than I expected.

Day Four: 13.8 km (± 4 hours)
You can order food and drink to be delivered to Andre Hut on the last night so we did that with intermittent cell phone reception. The thought of a couple of Coke’s later kept me on my toes all day - I never felt so alive! The longest day at 13,8km and although flatter than days 2 and 3 is certainly not flat! All the way I added stones to the cairns (piles of stones) that walkers have built up over the years and we worked out that only about 3000 people get to do this hike each year. Dad said he felt like Butch Cassidy looking back the whole time for the other group (they were six) and when we finally got to the Bloukrans River after about 10kms, it was high tide so we chilled by the river mouth and caught some rays. This is the one where they do the bungy jumping at the N2 and the cliffs are just as steep at the river mouth. As we were preparing to cross at mid-afternoon the other group arrived so we leant them our rope and helped them cross so that no-one got their stuff wet. That was really cool! After crossing, the hike up to the top again offered our first real view of Robberg so we knew we were not too far from the finish. That final night I slept like a baby after an open shower with a view of the Klip River mouth. We were so lucky to have met Ouma and Oupa - imagine sharing a hut with people you don’t like for four days!

Day Five: 6.8 km (± 3 hours)
The final day offered more amazing views and for the first time in four days the trail left the shoreline and we could experience the silence of the dense forest. After a couple of hours and a few small waterfalls, you see Natures Valley and hike (slide!) down onto the most beautiful beach at the finish. From there we got a lift back to Storms River and headed home but the drive was easier as Dad was more chilled. I’d definitely do it again – even though it was harder than I thought. I feel great!

Adventures in Cuisine

The Month visits the Dish Restaurant at Le Franschhoek Hotel | The Month May 2012

Responding to a recent invitation to visit the Le Franschhoek Hotel’s Dish restaurant, as the guest of Executive Chef Oliver Cattermole, I was particularly keen to see how the 2011 World Luxury Awards winning hotel would take to what their PR people referred to as a “a new culinary direction”, and to food that Oliver describes as “a little rustic but still elegant.”

Having arrived and parked, my date and I were greeted by smiling faces at the hotel’s main reception and shown to the Dish restaurant and an intimate spot at a table for two next to a large window overlooking the glass conservatories of Le Verger (the hotel’s other restaurant) and the beautiful Franschhoek valley below. Despite a number of tables playing host to patrons on the terrace off the main restaurant, and bodies dotted about the little ‘glass houses’ of Le Verger, our intimate spot was made even more so given that it seemed that many of the hotel guests were enjoying their sustenance outside, and
served in a glass.

In general the restaurant décor is understated, in a typical opulent hotel kind of way, and the tables were mercifully bare of extraneous table and glassware, leaving us space to catch up on a day rapidly passing, as candlelight flickered flatteringly in eachother’s eyes. “You look good in this light,” said my date. I thought about thanking her, then turned to order a glass of still water instead.

Service was brisk and friendly and as we enjoyed the occasional boom of Oliver’s broad accent emanating from the kitchen I caught myself singing quietly along to a piano version of Piano Man, played by a real pianist. Ever the clever one, my date smiled and said “You’ll sound great after a glass or two of wine.” I didn’t ask who she thought should consume it.

Our waitress arrived back at the table with glasses of Maison Chenin Blanc, courtesy of the chef, and an assistant bearing a beautifully presented salad of Beetroot with feta, salted orange segments and pickled walnuts. Even those who don’t count beetroot as a favourite will marvel at the sheer number of textures Oliver is able to extract from the humble veg and the many ways he plays with its flavours: sweet, savoury, smoky, smooth, crisp, delicate and full were all scribbled down as we oohd and aahd our way through the starter. The Chenin was a great match and highlighted some of the nuttier, earthy aspects of the beetroot, which in turn brought elements of the wine’s crisp white-fruit flavours to the fore. We were off to the perfect start – and certainly rustic, yet elegant.

A Mont Rochelle unwooded Chardonnay appeared next with a Woodland Mushroom soup and roasted cherry tomatoes, hot on its heels; and whilst the wine sparked some debate due to its robust nose, the soup hardly touched sides. “Is ‘smelly socks’ and acceptable descriptive term?” asked my date, looking at my notes. I hastily scribbled “Would have been interesting with a rose,” in its place and noticed the same date running her finger along the inside of the bowl to get at the last sweet and creamy soup smudges.

A Vrede en Lust Jess Rosé paired perfectly with our third dish, a ham hock terrine with mustard fruit and white bean puree – arguably Oliver’s Dish signature. A salty medley of textures, the presentation of the dish is all attention to detail, and I couldn’t help but signal as he greeted the recently-arrived patrons at a nearby table to suggest that keeping this up would be impossible on a busy night. “I’ve just had ten guys arrive and take my last 20 portions of fish; and each plate will be worth looking at,” he smiled, without a hint of sarcasm or arrogance. Ironically our next serving was fish too – a smoked, slow cooked salmon with tartar, citrus mayonnaise and brown bread that had me Tweeting the kind of thing that most would attribute to the equivalent of a culinary stalker. Paired with a Groote Post Sauvignon Blanc it was, without a doubt, the highlight of my night.

A perfectly cooked Maple Glazed Duck Breast and a fruity Hoopenberg Pino Noir then preceded a pause to stretch our legs and a chance to prepare for the Chocolate and Hazelnut Dacquoise with salted caramel ice cream and orange syrup, served with a not-too-sweet Muscadel.

As I sipped the last of my wine and gave in to the temptation to end the evening as my date had started – by cleaning every hint of food from the plate – I reached for my pencil to make a list of the dishes I plan to try on a subsequent visit. “Please just take a picture of the menu,” said my date, “we both know you’re going to copy down the whole thing!”

Their new winter menu:

To commence

Duck bon-bon with parsley root puree and hot pickled vegetables

Oak smoked salmon with tar-tar, citrus mayonnaise and brown bread

Forest mushroom soup with semi dry tomato and mushroom soil

Pan seared scallop with celeriac, golden cauliflower and ras el hanout

Roasted beetroot with whipped goats cheese, pollen and cured figs

Compressed pork with apples and croissant crisp

To follow

Chicken Bourguignon with boudin blanc, mash and sauce périgourdine

Line fish du jour

Dry aged beef fillet with stout braised barley and onions

A taste and textures from the garden

Roast rump of Karoo lamb with minted mash and young carrots

Pissaladière of red onion, spinach with artichokes and goats cheese

Thyme roasted venison, milk poached turnips with potatoes boulangère and bread sauce

To finish

Apple and sultana crumble with white chocolate ice cream

Goats milk pannacotta with mulled pears and walnuts

Barrel smoked chocolate fondant with cognac ice cream with home made nutella

Brioche treacle tart pain d épice anglaise with winter jelly  

Carrot cake textures with golden sultana puree and walnut candy