Waterkloof Estate: At One With Nature

The Editor visits Waterkloof Estate | The Month June 2012

Veteran wine grower, and one of the Napa Valley’s better-known (and some would stress opinionated) personalities, Stu Smith, has little regard for the biodynamic approach to wine production. In fact, in June 2010 he went so far as to create the ‘Biodynamics is a Hoax’ website and introduced his views without fear or favour by saying that “biodynamics… deserves the same level of respect the scientific community has for witchcraft, voodoo and astrology.”

It’s a strong statement, and a far cry from my simple introduction outlined only a couple of months earlier in the April 2010 edition of The Month in which I wrote: “Biodynamics… is based on the turn-of-the-century teachings of the Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, who believed that the introduction of chemicals to farming degraded the quality of food produced and represented a spiritual failing on the part of the farmer and a failure to keep in touch with the rhythms of the moon and the seasons.”

At the time of writing I thought Steiner’s views to be ‘interesting’, for want of a better euphemism, and if pressed may well have found myself on Stu Smith’s side of the biodynamic fence. I would, however, have stopped short of sharing Smith’s view that “Rudolf Steiner was a complete nutcase, a flimflam man with a
tremendous imagination, a combination if you will, of an LSD-dropping Timothy Leary with the showmanship of a P.T. Barnum.” Today, however, I find myself on the other side of that fence thanks to a stirring visit to Waterkloof and time spent with the estate farm manager, Christiaan Loots.

Visiting Waterkloof, with Classic Wine editor Cathryn Henderson, Food24.com’s Tessa Purdon, and freelance journalist Malu Lambert, ostensibly to sample the delights of Chef Gregory Czarnecki and enjoy the estate’s wines. I had no desire to potter about the vineyards or listen to Christiaan walk us through yet another take on a wealthy landowner’s attempt to be ‘kind’ to the already raped environment.
With a glass of water and the pleasantries of introductions taken care of we were ushered into Christiaan’s 4x4 double cab – me somewhat overdressed and squashed between the delightful, mini-skirted, ladies on the backseat – for the short drive to the farm’s water treatment plant, right outside the restaurant.

“It looks like a full-on sewerage works,” said a voice. “Yes,” came Christiaan’s proud reply as he launched into a detailed and captivating account of where the farm gets its water (and the name Waterkloof), their approach to water conservation, his own conversion from ‘regular’ farming to biodynamics and the fact that fully decomposed effluent is sprayed onto the vines.

“That water that we just drank,” I started asking, as I looked at Christiaan with what he’d no doubt label a measure of desperation. “Well, once the water is recovered from the treatment process,” he said, pointing to some reed-like plants and a wet-land of sorts next to the treatment tanks, “you could easily drink it; it’s probably better than most bottled water! But, no, the water we use in the restaurant is from a spring.”

Relieved, I took another look about as the rest headed back toward the 4x4. Had it not been for the complete absence of any nasty smells from the open aeration tank next to us, I would have been grossed-out enough at this early stage to end my visit there and then.

Instead I began to wonder if Christiaan’s uncomplicated application of biodynamic principles – right down to performing certain composting activities based on where the moon is in the night sky – might in fact be more than hocus-pocus window dressing. After all, the vines produce some truly fabulous wines, despite being spared the privilege of spring water.

Our next stop was to inspect a conventionally-farmed vineyard that Christiaan is in the process of converting to a biodynamically tended one. Intrigued I questioned him about the need for a gradual change - surely if there’s a better way of doing something, you should just do it, I suggested. Listening to Christiaan explain that years of orthodox vineyard management had robbed the soil of the necessary nutrients, microbes and plants needed to allow it to function as a dynamic living system, and that getting things back to ‘normal’ was best tackled over time, put me at ease, and in my place. The vines too need time to build up their strength, he said, pointing out the odd diseased leaf as he explained that regular spraying robs the plants of life in return for marginally better yields.
I found myself a step closer to buying in to his take on Steiner’s philosophy, but, like Thomas, I needed something tangible to bring the message home – and said as much.

“Well let’s take a look next door,” he smiled as he led us to a vineyard literally metres away. The vines looked much as the others had, to me, until Christiaan highlighted some glaring differences. The vine leaves showed no signs of mould, silica-binding Dandelions grew prolifically between the rows and there was no moss on the ground. The latter is a sure sign that the ground is compacted and that water is most likely not making much headway when trying to find its way down to the plant roots. “This soil hasn’t been worked at all this season,” he said as he bent down and stuck his hand into the soft earth – right up to the wrist. As he held out a fistful of dirt and humus, and shared that the vineyard received about half as much water as its neighbour,yet produced about 80% the yield, I had no need to look for any nail marks; I was convinced.

As our tour continued, via the beautiful Percheron horses that have replaced tractors on the farm and the many wine half-barrels filled with earthworms that break down the restaurant’s organic waste to produce the concentrated basis of some of the preparations fed to the vines in the winter, I couldn’t help but ask Christiaan about some of the stranger biodynamic practices.

Yes, amongst other things he buries cow horns filled with manure in autumn and digs them up in spring to produce a ‘tea’ which he uses as a fertilizer; Chamomile (both local and exotic) gets the same treatment – save that the horn is replaced by Bovine small intestines and he’s adamant, as microbes are central to the biodynamic way of life, that astronomical influences are best not ignored, despite being difficult to quantify exactly. His motivation is consistent, considered and generally sensible: the biodynamic approach has proven itself to work at Waterkloof, so rather than dismissing it, questioning one’s own preconceptions is possibly more enlightening.

Sometime later, as I stood at the ten-metre-high glass wall of the restaurant with its commanding view over False Bay, I found myself listening to the deserved oohs and aahs brought on by recounting the exquisite dishes Gregory had presented to round off our visit. Pressed for my favourite I found it impossible to choose just one and as I looked down on the Percherons, resting from their work in the vineyards, I realised that the item that had moved me most was Christiaan’s serving of a little biodynamic food for thought.

The Restaurant at Waterkloof is closed for the month for June (from 3 June to 3 July) but tastings and farm visits continue; call 021 858 1292 for more information.

Classic Wine says the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 is one of SA's best!

Classic Wine says the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 is one of SA's best; and if Classic Wine says it's true - it's true! That mag even gets a mention in the latest edition of The Month...

The Graham Beck press release: Graham Beck Wines has once again shown that not all that sparkles is Cap Classique; having placed in the annual top ten listings for two of South Africa’s leading varieties, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

At the Classic Chenin Blanc Top Ten for 2012 held in February, the Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 was among the wines selected in a category that has risen from the status of a ‘workhorse’ variety to a promising contender as South Africa’s signature wine[1]. The name Bowed Head derives from the shape the body assumes when tending the venerable vines; knees on the ground and head bowed over, in due deference. The vineyard yields tiny quantities of concentrated grapes; this giving rise to a richer, riper style with nuances of pineapple, honeysuckle and cinnamon spice. A natural, fresh acidity promises the longevity of the wine. 

Because Chenin Blanc “takes on everything you give it” says winemaker Erika Obermeyer in reference to using oak, larger barrels were used exclusively to add creaminess and palate weight. The elegant austerity and minerality shown in the wine is inspired by the wines of Loire; a particular passion of Erika’s.

In quick succession, another wine made by Erika, Graham Beck The Coffeestone Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, was chosen in the Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report Top Ten 2012. The top mark of five stars awarded to the wine was decided by the judges unanimously, in the inaugural issue of a report that aims to “scrutinize the front-runners” of a variety in which South Africa “can compete with the world’s best”[2]. 

Cabernet Sauvignon is a favourite of Erika’s among the red varieties; a grape that she sees as a “challenge” in terms of showcasing its true-to-cultivar character and specificity. The Firgrove terroir, the source of The Coffeestone, has Erika’s highest esteem as Cabernet Sauvignon territory. 

“The secret of the Firgrove terroir lies in its ancient coffeestone soils; very unique deep, granite gravel on weathering clay,” she says. “The very old bush vine vineyard we use for the Coffeestone wine is located in clear view of False Bay, from Hangklip to Simonstown, and cool breezes ensure a long and slow fruit ripening. Continual breeze controls the vigour of vineyard growth; the net result being small bunches of tiny berries with concentrated fruit, and structured but ripe tannins in the wine.”

Ripe berry fruits and tobacco spice characterise Cabernet Sauvignon produced from this terroir, and these are found in abundance in The Coffeestone. The judges for the Eedes report found “subtle notes of cassis, floral perfume and pencil shavings”; and yet exceptional fruit purity, “fresh acidity, and firm but fine tannins”. “Reigned-in power”, excellent structure and age-worthiness were noted; and the cellaring recommendation was up to 2024.

Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2010 and The Coffeestone Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 are available from the Graham Beck cellar at a price per bottle of R110 and R180 respectively. Orders can be placed with Chantel Matheus; telephone 021 874 1258 or email wineclub@grahambeckwines.co.za. 

Specialist retail outlets include Norman Goodfellows, Makro Woodmead, Caroline’s Fine Wine, Wine Concepts on Kloof Street, Cellars Hohenort, Cape Grace, Mount Nelson, and Parklane Cellars in Pietermaritzburg.

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[1]Classic Wine, February/March 2012, p. 39, ‘The Classic Chenin Blanc Top Ten’.

[2]  The Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report Top Ten 2012, pp. 1 -2.

The Best of The Best

The Editor enjoys a Feast of Shiraz at Hartenberg | The Month June 2012

At the most recent Syrah du Monde competition in France, Hartenberg Estate’s The Stork Shiraz took the honours as the world’s best Shiraz. No wonder the folks at Hartenberg are on top of the world and what better time than now to host their fabulous Feast of Shiraz and Charcuterie, where some of the finest flagship local Syrahs from leading cellars are paired with superb artisanal fare?

Aware that some may read through the pages of this particular mag after the 2nd of June festival date, and unable to report on the festival itself for the purposes of this edition, I sought out Hartenberg’s legendary winemaker, Carl Schultz, to chat about the state of South African Shiraz.

Carl was the top of his graduating class at Elsenberg in the late ‘90s and joined Hartenberg as winemaker in 1994 before being appointed Estate Director a couple of years later. He was invited to join the Cape Winemakers Guild in ’96 and such was his reputation that he was soon asked to serve as the Guild’s
Chairman. It’s a reputation that has continued to grow yet the  widely travelled and extremely knowledgeable, Carl comes across as a humble man who loves wine as much as he does life and who never seems to tire of sharing his passion for all things vinous - particularly Shiraz.

After dealing with my introductory questions about the nature of the 2012 harvest and the likely quality of the resultant wines – both of which Carl is positive about, thanks to the exceptional fruit quality this year, despite the slightly lower-than-average yield – Carl turned his attention to five bottles of Shiraz from a number of producers on show at the Festival. I commented that he hadn’t included anything from Hartenberg (hoping he’d see past my veiled comment and reach for a hidden bottle of The Stork – which he didn’t) and asked about the wisdom of hosting a festival in which ‘the competition’ was given a chance to compete for Hartenberg’s client-base.

Carl’s forthright answer says a lot about his belief in the quality of the Estate’s offering and that of the better Shiraz producers in the country – he’s proud of South African Shiraz, believes in its inherent value and acknowledges the massive variety the grape displays once the winemakers’ have done their thing. As South African wines go, both the domestic and international markets have proven that it’s a varietal wine of choice and sales are consistently on the up. Hartenberg’s Shiraz Festival is about celebrating the significance of Shiraz, and Carl is particularly happy to be in the kind of position that allows him to show off the best of the best, and not just the Estate. Adding Charcuterie and some artisanal fare to the mix turns it into a true festival and a day of celebration for visiting families, the Estate staff and Carl himself.

Tasting through the five Shiraz wines on offer it was immediately evident that Carl’s intimate knowledge of the products of a large number of producers has allowed him to fully refine and carefully justify his own approach to producing Hartenberg’s offering. Yet he does this without ever doing anything less than comfortably highlighting the best aspects of ‘the competition’. Descriptors such as fruit-driven; savoury; elegant; almost austere; French Oak; American Oak; longevity; bright; Forest-floor and caramel all made their way into my notebook – though not all for the same wine! Shiraz truly offers something for everyone and I found myself easily matching each wine to a different occasion and would happily have bought a bottle of each had they been on offer.

I said as much and got a naughty grin from Carl, “See you on the second then!” he beamed before we raised our glasses again in salute of the success of Shiraz.

Visit www.hartenbergestate.com for more on the Bottelary estate or see our What’s On? Pages for more on the Hartenberg Shiraz and Charcuterie Festival.

Looking Good Together

Norman McFarlane tastes the alchemy of Andrea Freeborough | The Month June 2012

blend [blεnd]
vb
1. to mix or mingle (components) together thoroughly
2. (tr) to mix (different grades or varieties of tea, whisky, tobacco, etc.) to produce a particular flavour, consistency, etc.
3. (intr) to look good together; harmonize
4. (intr) (esp of colours) to shade imperceptibly into each other
n
1. a mixture or type produced by blending
2. the act of blending

What’s missing in the above set of definitions is the word ‘wine’, and in particular, in the following definition: 2. (tr) to mix (different grades or varieties of tea, whisky, tobacco, etc.) to produce a particular flavour, consistency, etc.

Platter’s South African Wines 2012 on the other hand, gives the following definition: Blend A wine made
from two or more different grape varieties, vintages, vineyards, or containers. And it is in that last part – “vineyards, or containers” - that lies the reason so many apparently single varietal wines are so very good. Because whilst they might be single varietal wines, they are at the same time, blends, and to be precise, intra-varietal blends.

A fascinating tasting in the Die Bergkelder cellar deep in the Papegaaiberg overlooking Stellenbosch, where Andrea Freeborough practices her alchemy to produce Fleur du Cap wines, highlighted just how important the art of blending is, in crafting a fine single varietal wine.

The Fleur du Cap Unfiltered range includes a Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, each of which is constructed, not from wine from a single vineyard, or a single estate, or for that matter a single ward, district or region, but from up to four different wines of the same variety, from multiple districts, regions or wards. We tasted our way through twelve wines in total, some or all of which will find their way into the Fleur du Cap Unfiltered range.

Take for example, the soon to be released Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Sauvignon Blanc. Andrea and her winemaking team considered four different components from Elgin, Stellenbosch, Lutzville and Cape Agulhas. Each brings a particular set of characteristics - aromas, flavours, minerality, acidity – that are deemed to be necessary to produce a balanced final wine, that satisfies a set of carefully defined stylistic criteria. During the tasting, the subject of Sauvignon Blanc style came up for discussion. Would the crisp, fresh, green style redolent of green pepper and asparagus perpetuate, or was the market shifting towards a more sumptuous tropical fruit style? After much discussion it emerged that Fleur du Cap at least would continue to pursue the greener, fresher style, until its market, both local and overseas, suggests that a stylistic shift is necessary.

But where do these different characteristics come from? Why does Stellenbosch produce Sauvignon Blancs that exude tropical fruit notes like gooseberries, melons, guavas and passion fruit, while grapes from Darling are all about grassy, green pepper and asparagus? In a word, terroir. Okay, terroir is no simple word. In wine terms, it is possibly one of the most debated and the most contentious,  but irrespective of what your understanding of the word may be, most everybody would agree that climate (and weather) is the single most significant variable, arguably followed by soil.

Listening to viticulturalist Bennie Liebenberg describing each of the four locations where these Sauvignon Blancs grow, and why they present the characteristics that they do, puts the role of terroir into perspective.

But is it all about variables over which we have no control? Disregarding for a moment the long term consequences of human activity manifesting itself in shifting global weather patterns, there isn’t terribly much that one can do in the short-term to influence climate and weather. By like token, the soil that you have, is the soil that you have. To a lesser extent, the vines you have, oriented to the passage of the sun, and planted and trellised as they are, are what they are. Ripping out vineyards and replanting them is a costly and long-term business, not lightly undertaken.

At a micro level, giving or withholding water via irrigation, can and does influence how grapes develop, but what can be achieved is limited. If the vineyard is dryland, you’re deprived of this tool.

Which leaves canopy management and all of the attendant viticultural practices, to manipulate how much fruit each vine produces, and to a greater or lesser extent, berry size, sugar level and flavour profile. Turning once more to Sauvignon Blanc as an example, the popular green aromas and flavours are dependent on the level of Methoxypyrezene in the grapes, which is controlled by the amount of light and heat the berries are exposed to.  Canopy management is therefore critical in Methoxypyrezene control, which must be balanced against the need to avoid the berries getting sunburnt. It’s a complex, finicky business.

“My philosophy on good wine growing is pretty simple: Find a balance in the vineyards that are situated on excellent terroir and ensure proper vineyard management by controlling the crop through proper pruning techniques, canopy management and irrigation. This is the basis of a good harvest of quality grapes needed for the making of our wines,” reckons viticulturist Bennie. But listening to him talk about the lengths he goes to in the vineyards of the 300-odd producers from whom Fleur du Cap buys grapes, it becomes evident that Andrea and her winemaking team rely on Bennie to deliver the precise components they need to craft each of the Fleur du Cap unfiltered range.

The blending decisions had largely been made when we tasted the wines with Andrea and Bennie, with final blending planned for the following week. How they are likely to turn out was suggested by the current vintages which we drank over lunch after the formal tasting.  Uniformly impressive (as yet unreleased) 2011 Semillon, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Merlot and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon suggest that winedrinkers will be beating a path to their local wine retailers to lay in a stock. In the meantime, enjoy the current vintages.

LOST IN LAYERS

Johan Delport, Cellar Manager at Waverly Hills, chooses Vrede en Lust Boet Erasmus 2009 as our Wine of The Month

The Vrede en Lust Estate, outside Paarl, is the perfect place to visit over a weekend. The impressive and well-maintained historical buildings, the layout of the gardens and the attractive interior finishes all make it worth the visit – and then there are all the delightful wines... This Bordeaux blend is named after the grandfather of the current owners, the Buys family. My first experience of the same Boet Erasmus was as a young boy watching the Springboks play the British Lions from a seat on the Boet Erasmus Stadium in Port Elizabeth in 1980 with
my father, and getting lost in the rain. It is so good to find oom Boet again!

This wine, under screwcap, has everything you would expect of a top class Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. It has layers of ripe black and red fruits with balanced oak complementing it all the way through. The palate confirms the complexity and stays long enough for you to appreciate its careful crafting.

It sells at R150.00 per bottle and is certainly worth the purchase of at least a few.

Another Wine Festival? Sweet!

Cobie van Oort tells us why we should plan to attend the 8th Winter Wine Festival | The Month May 2012

With the kind of cold weather we’re sure to experience in May, wine lovers will no doubt begin to turn their thoughts to hearty winter dishes paired with rich wines, to be enjoyed beside a roaring fire.  It’s early days yet, but be sure to plan get to the 8th Winter Wine Festival at High Street Shopping Village in Durbanville from the 21st to the 23rd of June.

The festival offers visitors an opportunity to taste a wide range of Ports, brandies, dessert wines, Muscadels, Jerepigos and a selection of red and white wines and a chance to stock up ahead of the coldest part of the year.

Two of the interesting sweeter wines that will be on show at this year’s festival are Perdeberg’s Weisser Riesling - a natural sweet wine which is perfect with cheese or even instead of a dessert,  and Solms-Delta’s ‘Gemoedsrus’ which is a complex, fortified Port-like sweet wine that brings to mind brandy-spiked
Christmas cake!

Elize Walters, the PR and Marketing Manager of Propergation Estates, which presents the Festival, says that “for the first time we are including wines from Chile and Italy as well as creating a market atmosphere with our food exhibitors.  Visitors are encouraged to relax and linger at the festival; and with the regular wine theatre presentations, live music and food courts, we hope they will!”

With nearly 30 wineries and 20 food stalls pulling out all the stops, there’s every reason to linger and to make the High Street Shopping Village home for a few hours. The Durbanville Round Table have been chosen as the beneficiaries of monies raised via the festival, so you’ll have the added benefit of knowing that you’re there for a good cause.

On-site sales are encouraged and storage will be available from where purchases can easily be transferred to the parking areas.

Ticket prices are R80pp if bought on-line and R90pp at the door.  Pensioners’ and groups of more than 10 pay R70pp. Tickets are available at www.ticketbreak.co.za  from 1st of May or at the door during the festival. For more information visit www.winterwinefestival.co.za

Perdeberg Weisser Riesling Natural Sweet, R80 per bottle at the cellar
This low alcohol Riesling is a ‘sticky’ to be sure – with almost 133g of residual sugar! It has a beautiful pale yellow colour with immediately evident whiffs of honeycomb and apricot on the nose and perhaps even a little lime. There’s a fresh acidity to the palate that deals adequately with the sugar, but still allows the wine a sweet finish. Try it with rich cheeses, a sweet pudding or simply on its own!

Solms-Delta Gemoedsrus 2010, R220
This 100% Shiraz, fortified with Shiraz husk spirit, was matured for 15 months in mostly new French oak barrels, to retain the primary fruit aromas. It is a dark wine with hints of almonds on the nose and cocoa on the palate. With a little less than 80g of residual sugar it a decent sweet wine for the weight-conscious, but be warned – at 18.5% alcohol it may skip your hips and go straight for your head!

A Cheyne_Reaction

The Editor enjoys some food and wine at the Holden Manz Franschhoek Kitchen | The Month May 2012

“I made Kate Moss eat” reads part of the Twitter bio of Chef Cheyne Morrisby, the new man in charge of the Franschhoek Kitchen at the Holden Manz wine estate. Anyone prepared to share a claim like that, deserves a little attention.

So it was with pleasure that I accepted an opportunity recently to join Cheyne at the Franschhoek Kitchen to enjoy one of the Holden Manz “Winemakers’ Dinners” and a night’s stay over at the Holden Manz 5-star Country House – lest the winemakers got me to drink the way Cheyne got Kate to eat. The dinners are a relaxed affair and generally see the chef pair four dishes to each of the four wines presented, by four different winemakers, on the night.

The theme of the evening was ‘Shiraz’ and after a little bubbly upon
arrival and some convivial chatter on the restaurant terrace that overlooks a vineyard or two in the direction of the Guest House, we took our seats to put both winemakers and chef to the test.

A 2009 Eagle’s Nest Shiraz was paired with Venison tataki, a grape and onion marmalade and goats cheese. The white pepper, evident on the nose of the Shiraz, and the dark red berry flavours that follow were made all the fresher and cleaner thanks to the venison and, as introductions go, I can’t imagine many being better.

With plates cleared and another round of wines poured, this time the Mullineux Syrah 2010, it was clear that, at our table at least, diners were gearing up for a good time. That three of the four winemakers happened to be our table companions and that the gentleman and his wife opposite me were authentic French wine farm owners from Champagne, certainly helped. Not that any of the other tables seemed lacking in characters!

The Mullineux Syrah 2010 is more smoky black pepper than white, yet exhibits an almost Fynbos-like scent; it’s a seriously attractive wine and was my favourite of the night. For this wine Cheyne produced an Asian mushroom medley with a puff pastry square and deep fried coconut milk. The latter had us tasting, re-tasting and deliberating for long enough to call for a top-up of our wine and conclude that the pairing had resulted in a hung jury.

The main course for the evening was a Rack of Lamb, wasabi cream potatoes and a pomegranate and ginger glaze. Glancing down at the menu I saw that the lamb had been paired with the Holden Manz Shiraz 2008. Looking up I caught the eye of Schalk Opperman, the Holden Manz winemaker. “This is an eighty-rand bottle of wine,” I said rather bluntly, “and you think it’ll carry main better than any of the others that go in the two-hundred-plus category?” Schalk laughed nervously. “I haven’t had the dish that Cheyne’s going to serve, but I trust him,” he responded, still nervously. “And if he’s wrong,” he continued, “I can always say I didn’t make this wine!”

The pairing of the succulent lamb, with all the intense flavours brought to the plate by the rich accompanying miso jus, surprised all at our table. “Pity you can’t take credit for the wine, hey Schalk,” teased one of the other winemakers, as he managed to wangle a top-up. The ripe fruit flavours of the 2008 Holden Manz Shiraz are balanced by strong savoury characteristics and a full, soft mouth feel – it was perfect with the lamb and a bit of kick in the pants for those of us who tend to shop according to price.

A dessert of Blue Cheese Cheesecake with fig tempura and toasted sesame brittle completed the evening’s line-up and was paired with a recently bottled 2009 AA Badenhorst Shiraz/Mourvedre/Grenache/Cinsault. Despite not yet settling fully in the bottle, the wine’s obvious pedigree was already in evidence with a pepper and perfume nose and overt black cherry flavours. The wine’s dry yet flavourful finish made it a perfect partner to the not too-sweet cheesecake.

As those of us who weren’t heading off home across the Winelands lingered to enjoy coffee and the tranquillity of the evening outside, I thought back to my high school physics lessons involving chain reactions. Funny that we were never taught that there are some chain reactions that simply lead to smiles. 

The next Winemakers’ Dinner takes place on Wednesday the 16th of May and features Merlot. See the ad below for contact details.

Holden Manz presently has a special rate on accommodation at their Country House, and from May to the end of July, the Winter Secret package is only R995 per person per night. The picturesque setting just outside Franschhoek, amidst fruit orchards and vines, is secluded enough to offer peace and complete privacy, but not that far removed from everything to leave you feeling isolated.

The Country House features some exquisite art pieces, a beautiful courtyard koi pond, comfortable rooms with private outdoor seating and the best breakfast and service I have experienced in a long time. The attentive staff had me feeling at home from the moment I entered the front door and the additional offering of the adjacent spa, the Franschhoek Kitchen or a picnic on the banks of the Franschhoek River close by, make this a must-do for anyone intent on experiencing the best that the Winelands has to offer.

Phone 021 876 2738 or e-mail collette@holdenmanz.com for bookings.

When Gold is Just Not Enough

Izak Smit gives us a picture of the SAWi methodology

“With the proliferation of wine competitions and the plethora of awards and medals  that adorn wine bottles these days, Ed, how does the ‘average’ consumer know what constitutes a ‘good’ wine?” the Publisher asked me recently. Resisting the temptation to point out to him that ‘average’ is probably the kind of compliment I’d avoid when considering his wine knowledge, I did concede that the question is one I often grapple with.

I called Izak Smit, the project director of the South African Wine Index for a little advice. Izak identified the general merits of the Publishers question some years back and set about developing a method to quantify the various awards given to wines and to determine as objective a rating of the quality of a wine, over time, as possible.

After a lengthy correspondence, that left the Publisher confused and the Editor in search of a drink, we managed to hone it down to one paragraph and a very useful picture. We hope you get it.

At present, the index considers and aggregates all credible and blind-tasted wine scores and awards given to a wine, over a period of three years, into a single score out of a 100. In due course the single score will be represented as a split score to further categorise wines according to maturation periods and regions of origin.


See www.sawineindex.com for rated wines.   

Adventures in Cuisine

The Month visits the Dish Restaurant at Le Franschhoek Hotel | The Month May 2012

Responding to a recent invitation to visit the Le Franschhoek Hotel’s Dish restaurant, as the guest of Executive Chef Oliver Cattermole, I was particularly keen to see how the 2011 World Luxury Awards winning hotel would take to what their PR people referred to as a “a new culinary direction”, and to food that Oliver describes as “a little rustic but still elegant.”

Having arrived and parked, my date and I were greeted by smiling faces at the hotel’s main reception and shown to the Dish restaurant and an intimate spot at a table for two next to a large window overlooking the glass conservatories of Le Verger (the hotel’s other restaurant) and the beautiful Franschhoek valley below. Despite a number of tables playing host to patrons on the terrace off the main restaurant, and bodies dotted about the little ‘glass houses’ of Le Verger, our intimate spot was made even more so given that it seemed that many of the hotel guests were enjoying their sustenance outside, and
served in a glass.

In general the restaurant décor is understated, in a typical opulent hotel kind of way, and the tables were mercifully bare of extraneous table and glassware, leaving us space to catch up on a day rapidly passing, as candlelight flickered flatteringly in eachother’s eyes. “You look good in this light,” said my date. I thought about thanking her, then turned to order a glass of still water instead.

Service was brisk and friendly and as we enjoyed the occasional boom of Oliver’s broad accent emanating from the kitchen I caught myself singing quietly along to a piano version of Piano Man, played by a real pianist. Ever the clever one, my date smiled and said “You’ll sound great after a glass or two of wine.” I didn’t ask who she thought should consume it.

Our waitress arrived back at the table with glasses of Maison Chenin Blanc, courtesy of the chef, and an assistant bearing a beautifully presented salad of Beetroot with feta, salted orange segments and pickled walnuts. Even those who don’t count beetroot as a favourite will marvel at the sheer number of textures Oliver is able to extract from the humble veg and the many ways he plays with its flavours: sweet, savoury, smoky, smooth, crisp, delicate and full were all scribbled down as we oohd and aahd our way through the starter. The Chenin was a great match and highlighted some of the nuttier, earthy aspects of the beetroot, which in turn brought elements of the wine’s crisp white-fruit flavours to the fore. We were off to the perfect start – and certainly rustic, yet elegant.

A Mont Rochelle unwooded Chardonnay appeared next with a Woodland Mushroom soup and roasted cherry tomatoes, hot on its heels; and whilst the wine sparked some debate due to its robust nose, the soup hardly touched sides. “Is ‘smelly socks’ and acceptable descriptive term?” asked my date, looking at my notes. I hastily scribbled “Would have been interesting with a rose,” in its place and noticed the same date running her finger along the inside of the bowl to get at the last sweet and creamy soup smudges.

A Vrede en Lust Jess Rosé paired perfectly with our third dish, a ham hock terrine with mustard fruit and white bean puree – arguably Oliver’s Dish signature. A salty medley of textures, the presentation of the dish is all attention to detail, and I couldn’t help but signal as he greeted the recently-arrived patrons at a nearby table to suggest that keeping this up would be impossible on a busy night. “I’ve just had ten guys arrive and take my last 20 portions of fish; and each plate will be worth looking at,” he smiled, without a hint of sarcasm or arrogance. Ironically our next serving was fish too – a smoked, slow cooked salmon with tartar, citrus mayonnaise and brown bread that had me Tweeting the kind of thing that most would attribute to the equivalent of a culinary stalker. Paired with a Groote Post Sauvignon Blanc it was, without a doubt, the highlight of my night.

A perfectly cooked Maple Glazed Duck Breast and a fruity Hoopenberg Pino Noir then preceded a pause to stretch our legs and a chance to prepare for the Chocolate and Hazelnut Dacquoise with salted caramel ice cream and orange syrup, served with a not-too-sweet Muscadel.

As I sipped the last of my wine and gave in to the temptation to end the evening as my date had started – by cleaning every hint of food from the plate – I reached for my pencil to make a list of the dishes I plan to try on a subsequent visit. “Please just take a picture of the menu,” said my date, “we both know you’re going to copy down the whole thing!”

Their new winter menu:

To commence

Duck bon-bon with parsley root puree and hot pickled vegetables

Oak smoked salmon with tar-tar, citrus mayonnaise and brown bread

Forest mushroom soup with semi dry tomato and mushroom soil

Pan seared scallop with celeriac, golden cauliflower and ras el hanout

Roasted beetroot with whipped goats cheese, pollen and cured figs

Compressed pork with apples and croissant crisp

To follow

Chicken Bourguignon with boudin blanc, mash and sauce périgourdine

Line fish du jour

Dry aged beef fillet with stout braised barley and onions

A taste and textures from the garden

Roast rump of Karoo lamb with minted mash and young carrots

Pissaladière of red onion, spinach with artichokes and goats cheese

Thyme roasted venison, milk poached turnips with potatoes boulangère and bread sauce

To finish

Apple and sultana crumble with white chocolate ice cream

Goats milk pannacotta with mulled pears and walnuts

Barrel smoked chocolate fondant with cognac ice cream with home made nutella

Brioche treacle tart pain d épice anglaise with winter jelly  

Carrot cake textures with golden sultana puree and walnut candy

Drink with Care

We chat to Stefan Coetzee of Cybercellar about their collaboration with WESSA | The Month May 2012

Stefan Coetzee of Cybercellar gave our office an excited call recently, keen to tell us all about the online wine seller’s decision to partner with South Africa’s oldest environmental organisation, The Wildlife and Environment Society of South Africa (WESSA).

Knowing Stefan as an affable sort, and more importantly, that his Taste SA base in Franschhoek generally has some decent wines to sample, I suggested we meet up for a glass of wine and a decent chat.

Turns out that Cybercellar has been appointed the exclusive online partner for the sale of wines under the Cura label, which in turn is a WESSA wine initiative that serves to raise funds to support the organisation’s conservation and environmental education work. They aim to work in partnership with different wine estates to produce specially-branded WESSA wines. Given that they’ve been in the
conservation business since 1926, it’s appropriate that they’ve chosen the term ‘cura’ which means ‘care’ in Latin.

The first wine estate to partner with WESSA on this project is the Voor Paardeberg-based, Vondeling. According to the WESSA “Vondeling Wines was a natural ‘partner of choice’ due to its long-term commitment to conservation. The estate has over 400 hectares of indigenous fynbos on its mountain slopes, including critically-endangered Swartland Granite Renosterveld. Innovative practices employed by the winery include a renewable energy project and the use of compost teas instead of chemical fungicides to combat fungus. Vondeling is Biodiversity and Wine Initiative certified and is currently working towards Champion Status.”

For WESSA, Vondeling winemaker Matthew Copeland produced a Shiraz based on the Vondeling Erica Shiraz (Platter 4-star) with the addition of Mouvedre (8%), Carignan (3%), Petit Verdot (3%) and Viognier (1%). The result is a unique, premium wine that is good for the imbiber and the environment.

Cura Shiraz 2010, R78.50 p/bottle for 6 or R70.00 p/bottle for 12
The wine has a rich deep purple colour, with luxurious red and blackberry fruit on the nose. The hints of sweet spice, nutmeg, cloves and coriander are reminiscent of the smell of the fynbos depicted on the attractive label. The palate is full-textured and complex, with a lingering finish that carries the floral and spice character seamlessly!

Don't miss the Constantia Food and Wine Festival

From the 4th to the 6th of May experience the magic of the Constantia Valley at The Constantia Food and Wine Festival, where more than 40 of the finest wines and delicious food from the region's award winning restaurants will be showcased. Visitors to the Festival will be treated to multi-layered culinary delights, local wines, and live entertainment to showcase Constantia as one of the world’s premier food and wine destinations. Open air kids play area with activities for children of all ages will also be available.

A Toast To Good Taste

We visit Taste SA in Franschhoek and see virtually every wine in SA | The Month April 2012

Trying to get to grips with that ever-changing beast that is the SA wine industry – from the many family run, small scale producers  to the massive cooperative cellars – is no mean feat, and it’s no wonder then that getting to know the wines produced by that beast is more than daunting for most.

Aware that our regular wine contributors, Cybercellar.com have had some success with introducing a broad range of palates to a massive array of wines and many of South Africa’s most loved producers, we popped over to their Taste SA facility in Franschhoek for a chat to team-member Stefan, to get an idea of what it is that set’s their offering apart from the rest.

The rather swish tasting room in The Yard takes an interesting approach to making its wines available by showcasing up to 14 different wines from a selection of estates and producers, at any given time. What’s immediately clear is that Taste SA and Cybercellar work hand-in-hand giving supporters of the online store the chance to enjoy more than a virtual drop and those visiting Taste, the chance to purchase any of the wines available through Cybercellar (and to say there are many is a euphemism!). Be warned though,
the tasting room only has the 14-odd wines on show at any given time available for tasting, so don’t expect to walk out of the place with arms laden the way you would a liquor store; instead the Cybercellar team will have your wines, from all over the country, delivered to a door of your choice.

Tastings are R50 per person, with optional cheese platters also available, and you can expect to see the likes of Boschendal, Glen Carlou, Topaz, Oak Valley, Diemersdal, Diemersfontein, Amares, Oldenburg, Boschkloof, Marianne, Meerlust, Mont Rochelle, Sumaridge, Spier, Dieu Donné, De Grendel, Steenberg, Elgin Vintners and many, many more.

Noting my impressed gasp, Stefan wasted no time to add that he has a couple of wines available at the moment that come with free nationwide delivery. “I live just up the road,” I point out. Sharp as a tack Stefan points out that with the kind of savings I’m likely to enjoy, it’s time to move. For the record here are the two wines he recommended that come with that free delivery:

Bartinney Wines Noble Savage Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Blend 2009, R65 per bottle for 6/R59 per bottle for 12
The intense, powerful flavour of the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend is classic dark fruit and black berries and integrates absolutely beautifully with the softer, sexier, more sensuous cherry and raspberry nose of the Merlot.  The palate is round and concentrated, with spicy fruit and juicy tannins! This is an absolutely superb wine that will go well with a range of food and achieved a 4-star rating in Platter’s.                                                              
FREE SHIPPING TO ANYWHERE IN SOUTH AFRICA!

Druk My Niet Wine Estate Mapoggo White 2009, R49 per bottle for 6/R47 per bottle for 12
At first, this wine impresses the nose with layers of fruit that include pineapple, mango, peach and dried apricot. On the second whiff the unmistakable hints of Melon and Green Apple come to the fore and follow through on the palate, perfectly  complemented by hazelnut and vanilla flavours courtesy of the wood. It’s a surprisingly big wine given it’s relatively low alcohol content of 12.5%.
FREE SHIPPING TO ANYWHERE IN SOUTH AFRICA!

Email Stefan stefan@cybercellar.com for orders or more info on Taste SA and Cybercellar.com

This is the year of the "Hurry Up and Wait" harvest...

Across the board, local wine makers are excited about the prospects of the 2012 vintage. Not everyone is sure of exactly what to expect, but each time I ask the question, I get a sense that it's going to be good, and the caveat that "we'll have to wait an see". So I was chuffed to get the following release from Distell:

The 2012 harvest has produced excellent quality aromatic whites and reds of intense colour and well-balanced ripeness, according to Callie van Niekerk, who heads all Distell’s winery operations. This is despite the early January heat spikes that initially were a cause for concern, as well as shortages of water in some areas.

“Overall, yields are about 5% higher than last year.  The average,

however, doesn’t tell the full story of the crop losses in some dryland vineyards as a result of the lack of rain, nor of those areas that had access to supplementary irrigation and saw yields up by 10% to 15% on 2011.

Erhard Wolf, responsible for Distell’s grape and wine buying said: “In the main, we are very pleased with the outcome of a harvest that has not been without challenges. A cool winter allowed vines to go into proper dormancy. We were expecting a very different scenario with the cool start to spring and early summer which we thought would delay the start of the harvest.  Then suddenly, the heat rose in early January and again in early February. 

However, for the most part, February and March were relatively mild, making for long, slow and very beneficial ripening.

“What also enhanced quality was the drop in night time temperatures that in some instances were 1,5°C to 2°C lower compared with the average for February. This helped fruit to retain aromas and flavours. 

“In the case of reds, the early heat, followed by cooler conditions later during ripening, helped to eliminate green flavours and produce optimally ripened berries at lower sugar levels and with soft but firm tannins.”

He said the berries were smaller than average with excellent skin to fruit ratios and that the standout red for this year was undoubtedly Shiraz but with top quality fruit also coming from Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage and Merlot vineyards. 

“We are very excited by the whites across the board and the aromatic varietals like Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer are looking excellent,” confirmed Van Niekerk. “The season has also been very good to the Muscat varieties for which there is now a significant international demand. We are also expecting some superb noble late harvest and special late harvest wines from this vintage.”

The company was both planting and sourcing Mediterranean varietals such as Grenache, Carignan, Tempranillo and Mourvèdre to meet market interest and that these were proving exceptionally well suited to local conditions.

Van Niekerk said Distell’s ongoing research into ripening and ideal harvest times was proving a major advantage to the company. “By planning wines in the vineyard, we follow different strategies where viticultural practices are matched with eventual wine style and price point.  With the enormous diversity of offerings within our portfolio, our access to more detailed information about optimal ripening helps us plan with greater accuracy the harvest times of individual vineyard blocks and to co-ordinate the related logistics.

“Operating in such a complex environment means we need to be able to plan in detail to maximise the use of our cellar and other resources, manage costs as tightly as possible and control our environmental impact.”

He said a strong company focus was research into achieving optimal flavour development at lower sugar levels to reduce alcohol levels in wines, particularly in the face of warmer temperatures that were the result of climate change. “Worldwide there is a call for this across all varietals and styles. Our viticultural practices are continually being refined to better manage the impact of climate change so we can produce fruit of well-balanced ripeness with good colour, acid levels and flavour.”

Wolf added that Distell was in the very fortunate position of being able to source excellent fruit from across the Cape, particularly in the cooler-climate areas but also to compensate for shortfalls in those areas adversely affected by climatic conditions. “Low water reserves have really been an issue this season.  We have the technology at our disposal to monitor soil moisture content very closely and to fine-tune irrigation, saving water as far as possible.  

Careful canopy management, planting cover crops and strategic mulching also helped to counteract the impact of the dry conditions in some dry-farmed vineyards,” said Wolf. 

He confirmed there was still capacity to extend plantings across prime wine-growing areas to ensure the steady access to top quality fruit to address future demands.

Pioneers of Purity

Johan Delport, Cellar Manager at Waverly Hills, chooses Thelema Sutherland Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2008 as our Wine of The Month | The Month April 2012

Thelema Mountain Vineyards has always been a benchmark cellar in South Africa and one of the pioneers in the Helshoogte region during the early 1990s. Their attention to detail, especially in the vineyards, and also in the wine making and wine maturation processes, set many a standard for the wine industry as we know it today. The pureness of the fruit flavours of Thelema wines has impressed me since those early days, when this style of wine making was not yet the norm. Recently they have also invested in an Elgin property, named Sutherland.

The Sutherland Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot blend shows the typical clean fruit and balanced oak flavours of all Thelema wines, with an extra cool-climate elegance. Beautiful spice and minty flavours are complemented by red fruit and oak aromas. The palate is refreshing and structured with long lasting black berry and plum flavours.

This wine is worth cellaring. At only R100 per bottle, I fear, your cellar may not see much of it for long.
 

Luxury Wines

The Editor compares a ‘series’ of wines | The Month April 2012

“If you were a pumpkin farmer,” says Michael Ratcliffe, pointing out a 750-thousand-year-old patch of earth outside Paarl, “our Vilafonté vineyard soils would do nothing for you.” Fortunately, Michael and his American business partners, Zelma Long and Dr Phillip Freese, aren’t in to growing pumpkins; instead they produce two of South Africa’s finest red blends, the Cabernet Sauvignon driven ‘Series C’ and the Merlot and Malbec dominated, ‘Series M’.

Unlike many conventional wine producers, Vilafonté does not make a ‘premiere’ and a ‘second label’ wine. They simply make two wines, both of which have held their own at the highest level since 2003 and which Michael is happy to suggest define Vilafonté’s passion to create the first Luxury Wine brand in the country. After having tasted the two wines they produced in 2005 alongside both of the 2009 vintages, released this month, at a comparative tasting in March, I’m certainly
not going to argue that point.

Surrounded by a select group of extremely knowledgeable wine lovers at the tasting, my introduction to the 2005 Series wines is easily summarised as “sublime”. Despite being the least wine-savvy person at the table, it took only a sniff and a decent sip of each to appreciate the tremendous achievement that the ‘C’ and ‘M’ represent. As Michael and Zelma shared some insights about their business, the vineyards, the latest harvest and international wine trends I caught myself comparing their efforts to those of a very careful artist whose achievement lies not in simply creating a masterpiece, but in creating the very masterpiece he imagined he would create.

For those who’d like more than just my word for the mastery of their efforts, Vilafonté was one of only two South African wine producers to feature in the Wine Enthusiast ‘Top 100 wines in the World’ in 2011 (alongside De Toren) and their lowest Platter score ever is 4 1/2 stars.

Vilafonté Series C 2005, R599
(Cabernet Sauvignon 66% / Merlot 22% / Malbec 6% / Cabernet Franc 6%) The Cabernet Sauvignon is immediately apparent on the nose and the accompanying hints of pepper and French oak follow through on the palate before being joined by dark fruit and soft tannins. The result is a wine that feels full and round while it’s in your mouth and lingers, with a dry, somewhat fruit-driven finish, long after swallowing.

The dominant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot components of this wine are wonderfully integrated but still distinguishable and what really surprised me was the rich plum colour to the wine that did little to give away its age. This is a wine well-worth buying to enjoy now but is said to have another few years in it. If the comparative price of R899 for the 2003 Series C is anything to go buy, it may just be a very smart investment.

Vilafonté Series C 2009, R450
(Cabernet Sauvignon 54% / Merlot 27% / Cabernet Franc 11% / Malbec 8%) This wine was aged for 23 months in new French oak and it’s immediately clear that the Cabernet Sauvignon has revelled in being treated thus. There’s a rich mouth feel complemented by black and ripe red fruit flavours and a flinty sense to the nose. As I wrote “Elegant & Smart” in my notes, one of the tasters looked up and said “Sexy” and I thought, THAT’S what I meant!

Again, looking at where the price of this wine is likely to go in time, this has to be one of the most sensible wine investments about. How anyone who drinks a bottle is going to be able to resist the next, however, remains to be seen.

Vilafonté Series M 2005, R399
(Merlot 52% / Malbec 17% / Cabernet Sauvignon 31%) This is an extremely appealing wine with fruit and a youthful sense about the nose that may well see you check the label to confirm the vintage. Again, the colour of this wine shows practically no tinge of age and is a telling endorsement of its crafting.

On the palate there’s a hint of strawberry in the mix, along with white pepper and a touch of earthiness thanks to the healthy Cabernet component. The latter also makes for a wonderful structure and a lithe finish.

Vilafonté Series M 2009, R350
(Malbec 46% / Merlot 32% / Cabernet Sauvignon 21% / Cabernet Franc 1%) This wine is easily my favourite, and before you ask, I’m sure I spotted the 1% Cab Franc even before I looked at the notes.

This wine is a fleshy, fruity invitation to put your feet up and enjoy life. I got vanilla on the nose, as well as chocolate and fruit mince followed by more fruit on the palate, a soft mouth feel and just a hint of pepper to finish. The Malbec variety isn’t something I’m used to - but it’s earned a convert and dedicated Vilafonté drinker thanks to the Series M.

Contact Sophia on 021 886 4083

Gee, the G.2010 red blend is R2300

I got a mail from Vivid Luxury about a wine called the G.2010. The part that really caught my attention was:

The G.2010has just been selected as the exclusive wine from South Africa to form part of the renowned WHITE CLUB's international tasting event. The club is a Swiss international wine tasting club that is by invitation only, and they are holding tastings in South Africa next month (at R25,000 / person, dinner inclusive).  

This highly exclusive wine currently can only be purchased directly through 4G Wines for R2300 a bottle. Contact: info@4g-wines.com, www.peakofexcitement.com. 

Wow. 

The G.2010 is a blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Shiraz, 12% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc and should keep until 2040+

The tasting notes suggest: "spicy, peppery aromas with notes of eucalyptus and artichokes over a subtle background of dried plums and cassis mingling with leathery flavours. In a full-bodied attack, a

multitude of dark berries and a hint of juniper show tremendous ripeness in a powerful, yet lovely balance. Deeply integrated tannins provide a lengthy finish, catering for extraordinary ageing potential up to 2040, despite being produced from completely matured grapes when harvested."

Here's the official press release:

 

The G. 2010is unlike any wine you’ve seen coming out of South Africa. A rare and limited edition wine with an unusual attention to detail, the G. 2010sets a new benchmark for quality, price and rarity in South Africa, and finally brings to the world a ‘First Growth’ from the Cape.

Because of an uncompromising ‘quality over quantity’ standard, only 3,410 numbered bottles were produced. Top international wine making expertise (the famous Bordeaux wine consultant, Denis Dubourdieu is on the team), perfect craftsmanship and innovative technologies were combined with the best of South African talent and natural resources. The result is a wine that bridges the gap between the Old and the New World. Power and intensity is matched by an intense freshness, finesse and refinement, a combination rarely tasted before. Deeply integrated tannins provide a lengthy finish, suggesting extraordinary ageing potential that promises to survive many of us.

The G. 2010 represents the coming together of the shared passion of a group of European and South African wine lovers. Their vision for the G. 2010was to create the best wine to come out of South Africa to date, which meant having a ‘no compromise’ approach to every aspect of creating the wine.

The winemaking team behind G. 2010 combines over 100 years of expertise. The first part of the team is Denis Dubourdieu, the legendary French professor, wine consultant and winemaker who works with famous estates such as Cheval Blanc, Château Yquem, Hermitage La Chapelle and Jaboulet Ainé. Denis has been the godfather to icon wines scoring up to 100 points for years. For him, the G. 2010 was a real ‘heart project’, and with his legendary wine expertise, he is naturally an integral part of the team. The second is Giorgio Dalla Cia, the famous Italian born South African winemaker best known for his work at the Meerlust Estate. He was South Africa's Champion Winemaker in 1980 and producer of the best red blend in the world in 2006. The third is the local wine maker behind the project – Mia Fischer. This talented young winemaker graduated from Elsenburg Agricultural College, and has gained invaluable international experience working at award-winning wine estates in Germany, France and New Zealand.

The G. 2010is a unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and each berry is literally handpicked. Ten to fifteen times more labour than the average goes into creating this wine, with the selected rows in the twelve vineyards being especially well looked after, almost as if they were part of the family. The result is perfectly described by CEO Philipp G. Axt: “Grapes that almost look like caviar in the barrel. Picture perfect.”

The G. 2010’spackaging reflects the same quality of the wine. Each high quality glass bottle is hand numbered and individually packaged in an exquisitely handcrafted wooden box made from Iroko wood. The label, printed to Gallery-standard in Switzerland using four different printing techniques, features a miniature painting by German artist Sebastian Blinde. It represents the Cape’s natural beauty, with, amongst others, an eagle intertwined with the letter G. Further, when viewed under UV light, a hidden message appears on the label. The corks used are the best available, and still go through 5 stages of selection before ending up in a G. 2010 bottle. The acclaimed Château Yquem is the only other wine producer to have access to these corks. On top of that, each bottle employs 5 visible and invisible security features, ensuring the absolute authenticity of the wines. With so much attention to detail put into this wine, its clear that the G.2010 is not just another high quality wine, but indeed an ‘object of rare luxury’….

But, the wine is not only highly respected in South Africa; it also started collecting top international ratings. In René Gabriel – the well-known Swiss wine critic’s words - “This new and still completely unknown blend has the potential to become an icon and I will award it a well-deserved high rating.” With Gabriel’s rating of 19 out of 20 points, this rare and desirable new South African wine is sure to take the international world of wine by storm. Jeff Leve, the renowned US wine critic, concludes with his comment, “The wine sets a benchmark for quality, price and rarity in South Africa”.

For 4G Wines, there is simply no compromise for quality. Hence, the G. 2010 will remain accessible to only a happy few. Available only through a very exclusive international dealer network and some handpicked 5-star hotels and restaurants in South Africa and abroad, this ‘First Growth of the Cape’ promises a peak of excitement that the most seasoned connoisseurs will enjoy.

For more information on the G. 2010, visit http://www.peakofexcitement.com

A Grande Review

I can't take credit for the words of the PR people that follow; but I will take myself off to Grande Provence in Franschhoek to see if they're true. Let me know if you do the same!

The press release:


The Grande Provence 2007- a complex full-bodied red wine has a distinct nose of mint and eucalyptus, followed by ripe plums. The wine is elegant with soft ripe tannins, ideal to be enjoyed with red meat, venison or rich poultry dishes.

Grande Provence Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 - A mature red wine aged in French oak barrels for fifteen months. Unique aromas of berries are complemented by a soft and elegant taste experience. A prominent flavour of mint sets this Cabernet apart from the rest. Perfect with meat, cheeses and rich chocolate desserts. Cellar aging: The grapes were hand picked and the wine was aged in first and second fill French oak barrels for fifteen months.

Grande Provence Pinot Noir 2010 - An elegant, silky red wine with a smooth tannin structure. Fresh flavours of berries and strawberries are prominent on the palate and leave a delicious lingering after taste. This Pinot Noir 2012 is ideal for meats, salads or simply on its own. Cellar aging: The grapes were hand picked and then went straight to fermentation. The wine was aged for nine months in second fill French oak barrels.

Winemaker Jaco Marais comments: “I’m still excited to make wine because in the process there are so many stages that lead to the final product. I enjoy the various building blocks and the trick is to be patient and allow the wine to finish ageing in the barrels. The end result is always something truly special. For the Pinot Noir, the colour of the wine is more intense than usual, which is an indication that the grapes were picked at optimal ripeness so I’m looking forward to seeing how the wine matures. Marry any or all of these three new wines with the menus that Executive Chef, Darren Roberts has created and we’re sure you won’t be disappointed.”