Recipe of The Month: Kingklip with curry sauce, corriander, mango and granny smith apple served on wild rice

Recipe: Chef Gregory Czarnecki of Waterkloof

Ingredients: 800 g kingklip, cut into four portions • ½ mango • ½ granny smith apple
• 8 sundried tomatoes • 1 red pepper comfit • 120 g wild rice • Garlic
• Thyme • Bay leaf • ½ bunch of coriander • 1 onion • Curry powder
• 1 tin of coconut milk • Salt • Pepper • Olive oil

Method: Cook the wild rice in a casserole with a crushed clove of garlic, bay leaf and a bit of thyme.
Peel and chop the onion. Sweat it in a casserole with a bit of olive oil.
Once cooked, add the curry powder and continue cooking. Add the coconut milk and cook for another 30 min.
Strain and adjust flavour with salt and pepper.
Cut the mango into small cubes. Do the same with the granny smith apple, sun dried tomatoes and comfit red pepper.
Season the kingklip with salt and pepper.
Pan fry the pieces on the skin side in a very hot pan.


Plating: Plate the wild rice in the middle of the plate with the portion of kingklip on top.
Pour the sauce around the plate.
Mix the cubes of mango, granny smith, sundried tomatoes and comfit red pepper and plate it around the sauce.
Chop the fresh coriander coarsely and sprinkle on the fish.

Serves 4

Drink with Care

We chat to Stefan Coetzee of Cybercellar about their collaboration with WESSA | The Month May 2012

Stefan Coetzee of Cybercellar gave our office an excited call recently, keen to tell us all about the online wine seller’s decision to partner with South Africa’s oldest environmental organisation, The Wildlife and Environment Society of South Africa (WESSA).

Knowing Stefan as an affable sort, and more importantly, that his Taste SA base in Franschhoek generally has some decent wines to sample, I suggested we meet up for a glass of wine and a decent chat.

Turns out that Cybercellar has been appointed the exclusive online partner for the sale of wines under the Cura label, which in turn is a WESSA wine initiative that serves to raise funds to support the organisation’s conservation and environmental education work. They aim to work in partnership with different wine estates to produce specially-branded WESSA wines. Given that they’ve been in the
conservation business since 1926, it’s appropriate that they’ve chosen the term ‘cura’ which means ‘care’ in Latin.

The first wine estate to partner with WESSA on this project is the Voor Paardeberg-based, Vondeling. According to the WESSA “Vondeling Wines was a natural ‘partner of choice’ due to its long-term commitment to conservation. The estate has over 400 hectares of indigenous fynbos on its mountain slopes, including critically-endangered Swartland Granite Renosterveld. Innovative practices employed by the winery include a renewable energy project and the use of compost teas instead of chemical fungicides to combat fungus. Vondeling is Biodiversity and Wine Initiative certified and is currently working towards Champion Status.”

For WESSA, Vondeling winemaker Matthew Copeland produced a Shiraz based on the Vondeling Erica Shiraz (Platter 4-star) with the addition of Mouvedre (8%), Carignan (3%), Petit Verdot (3%) and Viognier (1%). The result is a unique, premium wine that is good for the imbiber and the environment.

Cura Shiraz 2010, R78.50 p/bottle for 6 or R70.00 p/bottle for 12
The wine has a rich deep purple colour, with luxurious red and blackberry fruit on the nose. The hints of sweet spice, nutmeg, cloves and coriander are reminiscent of the smell of the fynbos depicted on the attractive label. The palate is full-textured and complex, with a lingering finish that carries the floral and spice character seamlessly!

Quo Vadis Local Wine Marketing?

The White Wine Ou* wants locals to drink more | The Month May 2012

Wines of South Africa (WOSA) ran a conference last month in Stellenbosch promoting the Nigerian export market to local wine producers. This is not the first time, nor will it be the last time that WOSA promotes wine exports, which is of course entirely in keeping with WOSA’s brief. Why else would it be paid 7c for every litre of wine exported from South Africa?

According to the SA Wine Industry Directory 2011/12, we exported 378 549 900 litres (of a total 780 700 000 produced) of wine in 2010, contributing R26 498 493 to WOSA’s coffers. That’s a tidy sum of money in anybody’s language.

Opinion is divided on just how efficacious WOSA is in
promoting wine exports. There is a faction which belittles virtually everything that WOSA does, suggesting that the payoff to exporters does not justify the levy paid. There are those who believe the opposite: that WOSA has done much to increase our export market penetration in key markets like the EU, America, Russia and increasingly African markets like Angola and Nigeria. Trouble is, it is very difficult to say with any certitude, what impact a particular action taken by WOSA has had on wine exports.

Why? Because not all export promotional initiatives are executed by WOSA. Producers large and small send winemakers, marketers and brand ambassadors to many of our key markets every year, where they spend money, time and shoe leather in promoting their various offerings. Such focussed initiatives are arguably more effective at creating producer-specific (and therefore more measurable) demand than WOSA’s more shotgun-style approach (no disrespect intended).

Whichever side of the WOSA fence you may find yourself on, it remains that a funded organisation that exists to promote South African wines abroad. Unfortunately the same cannot be said of an inward-focussed organisation, similarly funded, which could do much to promote wine consumption in South Africa. “Is it necessary?” you may ask.

Yes it is! Per capita consumption of alcohol (in litres) has declined from 2001 to 2010 for most sectors of the local liquor market. The actual market shares over the decade deserve further scrutiny: Alcoholic fruit beverages (3.3 to 6.2), whisky (2.8 to 5.1) and sparkling wine (0.2 to 0.4) shares have all but doubled, with beer (42.4 to 46.1), brandy (5.9 to 6.1) and fortified wine (1.9 to 2.4) showing more modest gains. Shares of traditional African beer (24.6 to 16.6), natural wine (14.0 to 12.6) and other spirits (4.9 to 4.5)   have all declined.
Clearly the wine industry has suffered locally, experiencing declining per capita consumption, as well loss of market share.

This is even more telling when one considers that  in 1994 there were around 350 000 ‘middle class’ families in the country, and that there are now an estimated 3.8 million; the bulk of which do NOT drink wine.

The bleat that an internally focussed WOSA equivalent would not get off the ground because of powerful corporate wine interests (that would see it as a threat to their market dominance) is so much hooey, that it should be summarily dismissed. The pending alcohol advertising ban makes it obvious that the battle lines have clearly been drawn between government and the liquor industry, so now is the time for that industry to take the initiative, and voluntarily fund an organisation which can focus on the large untapped market with a clear message promoting responsible consumption.

The alternative is a regime that will cause aggregate decline in consumption, while doing little or nothing to reduce alcohol abuse, the admitted expectation of the proposed ban on alcohol advertising.

*The White Wine Ou writes regularly for a number of well-known South African publications on topics that range from food and wine to politics and the environment. Recognising the freedom he has at The Month to speak his mind, he intends to do just that. We’ve agreed to allow him to use a nom de plume as occasionally his comments may well cause some to reach for the shotgun…

Don't miss the Constantia Food and Wine Festival

From the 4th to the 6th of May experience the magic of the Constantia Valley at The Constantia Food and Wine Festival, where more than 40 of the finest wines and delicious food from the region's award winning restaurants will be showcased. Visitors to the Festival will be treated to multi-layered culinary delights, local wines, and live entertainment to showcase Constantia as one of the world’s premier food and wine destinations. Open air kids play area with activities for children of all ages will also be available.

A Toast To Good Taste

We visit Taste SA in Franschhoek and see virtually every wine in SA | The Month April 2012

Trying to get to grips with that ever-changing beast that is the SA wine industry – from the many family run, small scale producers  to the massive cooperative cellars – is no mean feat, and it’s no wonder then that getting to know the wines produced by that beast is more than daunting for most.

Aware that our regular wine contributors, Cybercellar.com have had some success with introducing a broad range of palates to a massive array of wines and many of South Africa’s most loved producers, we popped over to their Taste SA facility in Franschhoek for a chat to team-member Stefan, to get an idea of what it is that set’s their offering apart from the rest.

The rather swish tasting room in The Yard takes an interesting approach to making its wines available by showcasing up to 14 different wines from a selection of estates and producers, at any given time. What’s immediately clear is that Taste SA and Cybercellar work hand-in-hand giving supporters of the online store the chance to enjoy more than a virtual drop and those visiting Taste, the chance to purchase any of the wines available through Cybercellar (and to say there are many is a euphemism!). Be warned though,
the tasting room only has the 14-odd wines on show at any given time available for tasting, so don’t expect to walk out of the place with arms laden the way you would a liquor store; instead the Cybercellar team will have your wines, from all over the country, delivered to a door of your choice.

Tastings are R50 per person, with optional cheese platters also available, and you can expect to see the likes of Boschendal, Glen Carlou, Topaz, Oak Valley, Diemersdal, Diemersfontein, Amares, Oldenburg, Boschkloof, Marianne, Meerlust, Mont Rochelle, Sumaridge, Spier, Dieu Donné, De Grendel, Steenberg, Elgin Vintners and many, many more.

Noting my impressed gasp, Stefan wasted no time to add that he has a couple of wines available at the moment that come with free nationwide delivery. “I live just up the road,” I point out. Sharp as a tack Stefan points out that with the kind of savings I’m likely to enjoy, it’s time to move. For the record here are the two wines he recommended that come with that free delivery:

Bartinney Wines Noble Savage Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Blend 2009, R65 per bottle for 6/R59 per bottle for 12
The intense, powerful flavour of the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend is classic dark fruit and black berries and integrates absolutely beautifully with the softer, sexier, more sensuous cherry and raspberry nose of the Merlot.  The palate is round and concentrated, with spicy fruit and juicy tannins! This is an absolutely superb wine that will go well with a range of food and achieved a 4-star rating in Platter’s.                                                              
FREE SHIPPING TO ANYWHERE IN SOUTH AFRICA!

Druk My Niet Wine Estate Mapoggo White 2009, R49 per bottle for 6/R47 per bottle for 12
At first, this wine impresses the nose with layers of fruit that include pineapple, mango, peach and dried apricot. On the second whiff the unmistakable hints of Melon and Green Apple come to the fore and follow through on the palate, perfectly  complemented by hazelnut and vanilla flavours courtesy of the wood. It’s a surprisingly big wine given it’s relatively low alcohol content of 12.5%.
FREE SHIPPING TO ANYWHERE IN SOUTH AFRICA!

Email Stefan stefan@cybercellar.com for orders or more info on Taste SA and Cybercellar.com

This is the year of the "Hurry Up and Wait" harvest...

Across the board, local wine makers are excited about the prospects of the 2012 vintage. Not everyone is sure of exactly what to expect, but each time I ask the question, I get a sense that it's going to be good, and the caveat that "we'll have to wait an see". So I was chuffed to get the following release from Distell:

The 2012 harvest has produced excellent quality aromatic whites and reds of intense colour and well-balanced ripeness, according to Callie van Niekerk, who heads all Distell’s winery operations. This is despite the early January heat spikes that initially were a cause for concern, as well as shortages of water in some areas.

“Overall, yields are about 5% higher than last year.  The average,

however, doesn’t tell the full story of the crop losses in some dryland vineyards as a result of the lack of rain, nor of those areas that had access to supplementary irrigation and saw yields up by 10% to 15% on 2011.

Erhard Wolf, responsible for Distell’s grape and wine buying said: “In the main, we are very pleased with the outcome of a harvest that has not been without challenges. A cool winter allowed vines to go into proper dormancy. We were expecting a very different scenario with the cool start to spring and early summer which we thought would delay the start of the harvest.  Then suddenly, the heat rose in early January and again in early February. 

However, for the most part, February and March were relatively mild, making for long, slow and very beneficial ripening.

“What also enhanced quality was the drop in night time temperatures that in some instances were 1,5°C to 2°C lower compared with the average for February. This helped fruit to retain aromas and flavours. 

“In the case of reds, the early heat, followed by cooler conditions later during ripening, helped to eliminate green flavours and produce optimally ripened berries at lower sugar levels and with soft but firm tannins.”

He said the berries were smaller than average with excellent skin to fruit ratios and that the standout red for this year was undoubtedly Shiraz but with top quality fruit also coming from Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage and Merlot vineyards. 

“We are very excited by the whites across the board and the aromatic varietals like Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer are looking excellent,” confirmed Van Niekerk. “The season has also been very good to the Muscat varieties for which there is now a significant international demand. We are also expecting some superb noble late harvest and special late harvest wines from this vintage.”

The company was both planting and sourcing Mediterranean varietals such as Grenache, Carignan, Tempranillo and Mourvèdre to meet market interest and that these were proving exceptionally well suited to local conditions.

Van Niekerk said Distell’s ongoing research into ripening and ideal harvest times was proving a major advantage to the company. “By planning wines in the vineyard, we follow different strategies where viticultural practices are matched with eventual wine style and price point.  With the enormous diversity of offerings within our portfolio, our access to more detailed information about optimal ripening helps us plan with greater accuracy the harvest times of individual vineyard blocks and to co-ordinate the related logistics.

“Operating in such a complex environment means we need to be able to plan in detail to maximise the use of our cellar and other resources, manage costs as tightly as possible and control our environmental impact.”

He said a strong company focus was research into achieving optimal flavour development at lower sugar levels to reduce alcohol levels in wines, particularly in the face of warmer temperatures that were the result of climate change. “Worldwide there is a call for this across all varietals and styles. Our viticultural practices are continually being refined to better manage the impact of climate change so we can produce fruit of well-balanced ripeness with good colour, acid levels and flavour.”

Wolf added that Distell was in the very fortunate position of being able to source excellent fruit from across the Cape, particularly in the cooler-climate areas but also to compensate for shortfalls in those areas adversely affected by climatic conditions. “Low water reserves have really been an issue this season.  We have the technology at our disposal to monitor soil moisture content very closely and to fine-tune irrigation, saving water as far as possible.  

Careful canopy management, planting cover crops and strategic mulching also helped to counteract the impact of the dry conditions in some dry-farmed vineyards,” said Wolf. 

He confirmed there was still capacity to extend plantings across prime wine-growing areas to ensure the steady access to top quality fruit to address future demands.

Tossing The Keys

California Dreaming, Dave Rundle surfs the net | The Month April 2012

Like many South Africans, we woke on the 19th of February to witness some amazing hitting by Richard Levi when he smashed the Blackcaps to every corner of Hamilton’s Sneddon Park. In fact, the ground was not big enough for him and it was interesting to see the selectors send him back to SA to torment the local bowlers, rather than keep him to destroy New Zealand in the ODIs. What is so good about his batting is that he stands so still when hitting - he is the David Warner of South African cricket.

While watching, I surfed the internet for interesting reading and came across an article by Tim Read entitled: ‘The US Foreclosures Crisis, Beverly Hills style’.

There are some 180 houses in Beverly Hills, the storied Los Angeles enclave rich with Hollywood stars and
music moguls, which have apparently been foreclosed on by lenders, scheduled for auction, or served with a default notice. Apparently, this is the highest level since the 2008 financial crash.

As in the default-ravaged suburban subdivisions of Phoenix, Arizona, and Tampa Florida, it is plunging real estate prices that is the root of the problem in Beverly Hills. But the dynamics of residential real estate are very different in elite neighbourhoods such as this. The majority of the delinquent homeowners, who owe more than a million dollars, are walking away - not because they can’t pay, but because they feel it would be foolish to keep paying when the asset is falling in price.

These are called ‘strategic defaults’ and they are an especially appealing option in California, one of the primary states where mortgages made by banks are ‘non-recourse’ loans. This means the loan is secured solely by the property, and banks cannot go after a delinquent owner’s income, or other assets, if they default.

In South Africa, things are very different. If you default, the bank will take everything you own until they have recovered their asset. Obviously, this prevents the ‘Beverly Hills’ thing happening here, but I am sure there are a few people who, having bought a ‘dog’ property, have thought it would be a good idea to chuck in the keys at the bank.

This has a big influence on the price of property in SA and means that most banks are very careful about the amount they are prepared to lend. Maybe our system is tougher to live with but, at the moment, it is saving us.

If you have a financial question that you’d like Dave to answer in his column, please submit it to dave@rundle.co.za and he’ll gladly oblige

This article is solely intended to provide you with objective information about financial products and services and is not intended to constitute a recommendation, guidance or proposal with regard to the suitability of any product in respect of any financial need you may have.

Dave Rundle
Rundle Management Services